高句麗 古墳壁畵의 服飾과 日本 埴輪의 服飾 比較硏究

Abstract

This·study is to survey the connection between the clothes from the old tombs mural of Koguryo and the one from Haniwa (埴輪) in old tombs of Japan. Ancient history of Japan have been divided into four periods; the period of none earthenware (無土器時代), the period of Jowmong (繩文時代), and the period of Yayoi (彌生時代). The clothes of Japan have been changed radically between the period of Yayoi and the period of old tombs. At the end of the 3C A.D, the clothes wearing in the begining from the head through its hole in the middle of it (貫頭依) and drapery (橫福依) were disappeared. But in its place, long upperclothes and narrow trousers (長□細□), clothes wearing tightly (□柚□體形) became the general mode of clothes at that time. These can be find out in Haniwa which were standed around the old tombs. The period of old tombs in Japan's ancient history could be connected with Three kingdom period. It is possible to find out the style of clothes of Three kingdom period only in old tombs mural of Koguryo. It was noticed by the old tombs mural of Koguryo, excavations from the old tombs of Shilla, pictures and stone statues in the relic, and the picture of the highest rank of priest in the Back-Je in Yangjikkongdo (梁職貢圖) that the style of the clothes of Three kingdom period were same one anothor. The costume from the old tombs of Koguryo which are representative in the relic and the one from Haniwa are analysized comparatively and are determinded the relationship of them. Concerning the costume, the upper clothes for men and women were shaped to adjust on left (左□), narrow sleeves (□柚), round neck line (盤領) or straight neck line (直領). On the other hands, the lower clothes for men were trousers, for women were the long skirts. The edge line in the clothes were decorated 'Gik' (領), 'Sub' (□), 'Dan' (□), Trouser Dan (□의□), Skirt Dan (裳의□). Because Haniwa are made of clay, it's difficult to notice its color well. But these styles were the basic form of clothes found in old tombs mural of Koguryo and had influenced co the style of clothes in Haniwa. Concerning the hat, one shaped triangle (折風帽), one having feathers (鳥羽冠), one decorated with something being shap-pointed at both sides (雙角式冠帽), add one shaped a Korean hat made of bamboo (笠形式冠帽) were discovered in old tombs mural of Koguryo, in Haniwa, and in earthenware from old tombs in Japan. The initial mode of these hats have been influenced by the hats of the nomadic tribe in the North rank. Also, it is considered that Han (漢), Jin (秦), Oh (吳) were the korean women who had gone overseas to Japan as the clothes makers at the Japan's old tombs period, This fact means that the korea's costume system had been introduced in the Japan's.;本 論文은 高句麗古墳壁畵의 服飾과 日本古墳에서 出土된 植輪의 服飾이 어떠한 連關性이 있는가를 考察한 것이다. 日本의 古代史의 時代 區分을 보면 無土器時代, 繩文(조오몽) 時代, 彌生(야요이)時代, 古墳時代로 부르고 있다. 日本의 服飾을 彌生時代와 古墳時代에 있어 급격한 변화를 보이고 있다. 3世紀頃에 貫頭衣와 橫幅衣가 없어지고 그 服飾이 장유세고와 窄袖肢體形의 衣服樣式으로 변모했다. 이것은 日本의 이 時期에 墓 둘레에 세웠던 植輪(하니와)에서 찾아볼 수 있다. 日本에 있어 古墳時代의 年代는 우리 나라에 있어서는 三國時代와 관련지을 수 있다. 우리나라 三國時代의 服飾의 形態는 高句麗古墳壁畵, 新羅古墳出土遺物의 그림, 石像, 梁職貢圖의 百濟國使圖등에서 三國時代의 服飾이 서로 같았음을 알 수 있고, 中國 文獻을 통해서도 알 수 있다. 이중 代表的인 高句麗古墳壁畵의 服飾과 日本의 植輪 服飾을 비교하여 상호간에 어떠한 관련이 있는지를 살펴보았다. 衣服에 있어서는 上衣는 男女 모두 좌임 혹은 우임, 窄袖, 盤領 또는 直領으로 된 유(衣)를 着用하였으며, 下衣는 男子는 袴(곤)을 着用하였고, 女子는 裳을 着用하였다. 선에 있어서는 유(衣)의 領 임, 거, 袴(곤) 및 裳의 단등에 장식적인 선을 가하였는데 埴輪는 흙으로 빚어진 것이므로 그 색채를 잘 분별할 수 없었다. 이와 같은 服裝은 高句麗古墳壁畵 服飾의 基本服裝으로 埴輪의 服裝 形態에 그 영향을 주었다고 본다. 冠帽는 高句麗古墳壁畵와 日本 埴輪 및 古墳出土品을 통하여 析風帽 鳥羽冠, 雙角式冠帽, 笠形式冠帽등에서 공통적 양상을 발견할 수 있었으며, 冠帽의 始源 양식은 北方系遊牧民族의 冠帽의 영향을 받았음을 알 수 있었다. 또한, 日本의 古墳時代에 渡日한 漢(아야)氏, 秦(하다)氏, 吳(구레)氏 등은 韓半島에서 건너간 衣縫主女라 볼 수 있어 이들과 함께 韓國의 衣服制度가 함께 日本에 건너 갔음을 알 수 있었다.