우리나라 중년여성의 체형에 따른 기본옷본의 연구

Abstract

Tlae purpose of this research was to study basic dress pattern for Korean middle aged women. Six women were selected among Korean middle aged women and the shape of the body of each subject was analyzed through measuring, photograph and the crosscutting skectches. It was that there was relationship between the examined body shape and the basic dress pattern. Basic dress pattern was developed by the use of draping and flat pattern method. The results are as follows: 1. It was found that the common characteristics of six women had a long bust point and thick waist, the hip line of six women was low. 2. It was found that front and back neck line and shoulder line in pattern were changed by the characteristics of the shape of the back and shoulder of each subject. 3. It was found that front neck line and arm hole line were moved toward the areas of the neck or the shoulder in pattern according to the shape of the shoulder bone and the brest bone. 4. In case of the bust was large, pattern had a arm cut. 5. It was found that the back waist dart was reached between the middle hip line and the hip line from three centi-meter under the chest line. Also was found that the front waist dart was stopped at the middle hip line from three centi-meter under the bust point;본 논문은 우리나라 중년 여성의 체형에 잘 맞는 옷본의 연구에 관한 것이다. 우리나라 중년 여성중 각기 체형의 특징이 다른 6사람을 선정하여, 인체계측과 사진 촬영, 인체 횡단 도면을 통해서 체형을 분석하고, 입체 재단과 평면 제도법을 병용하여 기본 옷본을 제작함으로써 분석한 체형과 기본 옷본과의 관계를 알아 보았다. 결론은 다음과 같다. 1. 중년 여성 6사람의 공통적인 체형 특징은 유두점 길이가 길고, 허리가 굵으며, 배가 매우 나오고, 엉덩이가 쳐진다. 2. 앞뒤의 목둘레선과 어깨선은 등의 자세에 따라 변동된다. 3. 앞 목둘레선과 소매 둘fp선 (Arm Hole)은 앞 어깨뼈와 흉골이 튀어 나온 것에 의하여, 목 둘레선쪽 혹은 소매 둘레선 쪽으로 이동된다. 4. 가슴의 높이가 윗 가슴선으로부터 높은 형은 소매 둘레선에서 가슴 다트를 보충해 준다 (Arm Cut). 5. 뒤 허리 다트는 윗 가슴선 3cm아래에서 시작하여 배선(Middle Hip Line)과 엉덩이선 사이에서 끝나고, 앞 허리 다트는 유두점 3cm 아래에서 시작하여 배선에서 끝난다.