Development of a test method for the dynamic drapability of fabrics using reciprocating motion

Abstract

This study aimed to develop a method for measuring the dynamic drapability of fabrics using a reciprocating motion device that mimics the movement created by shaking a piece of fabric. Five types of fabrics were selected based on their drape coefficients and weights, and the lengths of fabrics were determined based on skirt length (50 cm) and dress length (100 cm). The width and speed of the reciprocating motion were considered as the experimental variables. Results of reciprocating motion-based fabric movement analysis revealed that the number of nodes, the position of the first node, amplitude, total length, and area are significant factors for measuring dynamic drapability. It was found that the longer fabrics had more nodes, enabling measurement of various types of fabrics. Furthermore, it was found that a wider reciprocation width under the same speed and a faster reciprocation speed with the same width favorably demonstrated dynamic drapability, resulting in proportionality between the reciprocating motion and the force transmitted to the fabric. Movement analysis of seven selected conditions and additional samples showed that the optimal condition was a 100-mm reciprocation width and a 150-rpm speed and that the first node’s position is the most significant factor for a dynamic drapability. To verify the proposed measurement method, measuring four pairs of fabrics with similar drape coefficients but different shapes showed that as fabric weight increased, the node moved downward, despite similar drape coefficient values. This confirms that the proposed method can overcome the limitations of the existing drape coefficient. © 2023, The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles.