D-tyrosine adds an anti-melanogenic effect to cosmetic peptides

Abstract

D-tyrosine is known to negatively regulate melanin synthesis by inhibiting tyrosinase activity. Here, we further reveal that peptides containing terminal D-tyrosine can reduce the melanin contents of human melanocytes. The addition of D-tyrosine to the terminus of the commercial anti-wrinkle peptide, pentapeptide-18 endowed the peptide with the ability to reduce the melanin content and tyrosinase activity in human MNT-1 melanoma cells and primary melanocytes. Consistently, terminal D-tyrosine-containing pentapeptide-18 inhibited the melanogenesis induced by a-MSH treatment or UV irradiation of MNT-1 cells and reduced melanin synthesis in the epidermal basal layer of a 3D human skin model. Furthermore, the addition of D-tyrosine to an anti-aging peptide (GEKG) or an anti-inflammatory peptide (GHK) endowed these short peptides with anti-melanogenic effects without altering their intrinsic effects. Together, these data suggest that the addition of D-tyrosine at the terminus of a short cosmetic peptide adds an anti-melanogenic effect to its intrinsic cosmetic effect. Our work offers a novel means of generating dual-function cosmetic peptides.