환경친화형 불소계 발수제를 적용한 기능성 가공 DTP 견직물의 연구 및 활용

Abstract

사회적 트렌드를 형성한 웰빙(well-bing), 이웃과 사회, 세계의 환경을 고려하는 로하스(LOHAS), 지속가능한 성장(Sustainable Development)에 대한 관심은 의류 소재에도 많은 변화를 가져오고 있다. 소비자들의 다양한 요구를 충족시키기 위한 항균, 방취, 건강과 쾌적을 위한 소재가 각광을 받고 있다. 대기오염, 수질, 산림파괴와 같은 환경문제와 더불어 제품의 생산, 소비, 회수를 포함한 친환경 제품의 전 생애를 고려한 프로세스까지도 관심의 대상이 되고 있다. 기능성 가공 중 발수가공에 있어서 PFOA (Perfluorooctanoic Acid)는 동물실험에서 암과 신경독성을 일으키는 것으로 알려진 인체에 유해한 물질로 미국 환경청(EPA : Environmental Protection Agency)에서 오는 2015년까지 이 물질을 완전히 없애는 방안을 요청하고 있다. 이러한 유해성 발수가공의 대안으로 C6제품의 개발이 주목 받고 있으며, 전반적인 기술들을 재구축하는 것이 필요하다. 우리나라는 오래전부터 견직물을 한복의 소재로 활용해 왔음에도 불구하고 제품으로써의 활용 범위가 의류, 스카프, 넥타이 등으로 한정되어 있는데 이는 소재 자체가 고가이면서 좋지 못한 내구성으로 생활에서의 활용이 어렵기 때문이다. 이 중에서도 날염을 접목한 디자인들은 고가로 판매되고 있다. 날염 공정에서도 친환경을 고려하지 않을 수가 없는데, 디지털 날염 시스템 (DTP : Digital textile printing)은 친환경적 공정으로 분류할 수 있으며, 전통적인 날염공정에서 발생되는 많은 오염물질을 줄일 수 있는 시스템이다. 디지털 날염 시스템에서 활용되는 잉크는 종이에 고착시키는 인쇄용 잉크와 달리 섬유에 염착이 되어야 하므로 기존 날염공정에서 사용되는 염료가 적용된다. DTP 잉크의 종류로는 반응성, 산성, 분산, 안료잉크가 있으며 견직물은 주로 반응성잉크와 산성잉크로 프린팅 된다. 따라서 본 논문에는 고부가 가치의 기능성 견직물 제품의 생산을 위하여 DTP 공정에서 많이 사용되고 있는 반응성 잉크와 나노 안료 잉크를 사용하여 색상별로 인쇄하고 인쇄된 모든 시료에 C6 기반의 환경친화형 불소 발수제와 가교제를 여러 비율로 제조하여 처리하고, 다양한 온도별 열처리를 통하여 인쇄된 견직물의 물성을 조사하였다. 먼저 견직물의 인쇄 및 발수 특성을 분석하기 위하여 견과 유사한 드레이프와 광택을 지닌 레이온 필라멘트직물, 합성섬유 중에서 견과 비교적 유사한 분자구조를 가진 나일론 필라멘트직물, 견직물의 평직, 능직, 수자직 직물을 선정하여 발수가공하고 분석하였다. 셀룰로오즈 성분인 레이온은 반응성 잉크를 사용할 때 전처리의 알칼리 성분 없이 인쇄한 결과 염착이 일어나지 않았다. 견직물의 전처리는 가공후의 심색효과와 견뢰도는 증가 하는 반면 공기투과도와 강연도는 감소하였다. 모든 시료의 강연도는 인쇄 후, 발수 가공 후 점차 뻣뻣해졌는데 레이온의 증가율이 가장 높았다. 발수처리를 통한 발수도는 모두 우수하였으며, 가공 후 K/S값의 증가로 심색효과가 모든 시료에서 나타났다. 전반적으로 반응성 잉크보다 나노 안료 잉크의 발수도, 접촉각, 발유도가 더 우수 하였다. 견직물 가공조건별 실험결과로 염착력은 반응성 잉크가 나노 안료 잉크보다 우수하며, 발수가공후의 K/S값의 변화는 가교제 농도와 열처리에 대한 변화는 미비하지만 발수제 농도에 따라 K/S값이 증가하였다. 공기투과도는 나노 안료 잉크의 경우 가교제 농도 증가에 따라 투과율이 상승하였으나, 발수제 농도와 열처리 온도에 따라서는 투과율이 감소하였다. 강연도는 가교제와 발수제 농도에 영향을 받으며, 나노 안료 잉크는 발수제 농도와 열처리 온도에 따라 다소 뻣뻣함이 증가하였다. 스프레이법에 의한 발수도 측정결과는 가교제 농도에 상관없이 모두100이고, 발수제 농도와 열 처리온도에 영향을 받았다. 전반적으로 나노 안료 잉크가 반응성 잉크보다 발수제의 낮은 농도에도 발수도, 접촉각, 발유도가 더 우수 하였다. 발유도는 발수제 농도에 영향을 받으며 발수도와 달리 반복세탁에 대한 내구성이 좋지 못하였다. 견직물의 반복 세탁 후에도 양호한 발수도와 발유도, 색상을 보이는 최적조건은 발수제농도 40g/ℓ, 가교제 8g/ℓ, 열처리 온도와 시간은 160℃에서 3분이었으며, 나노 안료 잉크가 반응성 잉크보다 높은 발수도와 발유도를 나타냈다. 이렇게 측정된 견직물의 잉크별 기능성 가공조건과 특성을 DTP 생산 공정에 접목하기 위해서는 그래픽 프로그램이나 Textile CAD System을 통한 디지털 그래픽 작업이 필요하다. 따라서 컴퓨터 날염 디자인작업에 많이 사용되는 Textile CAD System의 효과적인 디자인 개발 프로세스를 마련하였다. 2014년 Summer 시즌의 Hot & Pattern 테마를 바탕으로 비트맵 모드와 벡터 모드에서의 디자인 개발 프로세스를 정리하였다. 그리고 테마별 개발된 디자인에 실험에서 도출된 최적 조건을 바탕으로 가공하여 제품으로 완성하였다.;Once gripped by the sweeping trend of well-being that is characterized by pursuit of one’s own health and happiness, our society has seen a significant change in various business sectors and more recently find the trend evolve into more sophisticated and embracing concept called “LOHAS” that takes our community, society and global environment into account.1) The recent phenomenon that places the focus of public interest on the theme of health and environment brings a lot of changes in clothing material. People are increasingly attracted to antibiotic and deodorant materials that meet various consumer needs with regards to health and comfort while extending their interest to environmental issues such as atmospheric pollution, water contamination and deforestation as well as the process of manufacturing eco-friendly products, which reflects a keen environmental awareness to protect our Mother Earth.2) PFOA (Perfluorooctanoic Acid) that raises concerns recently with regards to water-repellent finishing has proven to be harmful to humans through animal testing with potential to cause cancer and neurotoxicity and the US Environmental Protection Agency has gone as far as requiring the material to be eliminated in its entirety by 2015. As a viable alternative to this toxic water-repellent finishing material, the development of C6 products is gaining popularity, which necessitates reestablishment of technologies in a comprehensive manner.3) Despite the fact that we Koreans have used silk as the fabric for our traditional Korean Hanbok, its application is limited to items such as premium clothing, scarf and necktie as silk fabrics are expensive and are not durable enough to be used as everyday products. Among silk fabrics, clothing with printed design is selling as a high value-added product. We cannot help but consider eco-friendliness in manufacturing process involving printing and, in this respect, The Digital Textile Printing (DTP) attract popular attention as a system that can reduce a lot of contaminants that may arise in the printing process. Unlike regular inks, inks used in DTP are applied with dyes used in existing printing process as they are used to dye fabric materials, and come in a variety of forms, including reactive ink, acidic ink, disperse ink and pigment ink. Silk fabrics are dyed with reactive ink and acidic ink.4) This paper has focused on finding out about the physical properties of printed silk fabrics by printing different colors on them using reactive ink and pigment ink and processing and manufacturing undiluted solution of c6-based eco-friendly fluoric water-repellent and oil-repellent materials and cross-linking agents in different ratios to be applied to all printed samples along with curing at different ranges of temperature First, I dipped five fabric types of rayon, nylon, plain silk, twilled silk and satin silk into processing solution with 40g/ℓ of water-repellent concentration and PH of 4 to 5 for 10 minutes with the pick-up ratio of 80±6%. Upon completion of padding, samples were dried for two minutes and cured at 160℃ for three minutes to analyze the water and oil repellency by fabric and texture. The color fastness to washing and rubbing was excellent but the some fabric dyed with un-preprocessed reactive ink showed poor fastness, and rayon dyed with un-preprocessed reactive ink lost the color of printed design completely during the washing process. When it comes to fastness to rubbing, the fabric dyed with un-preprocessed reactive ink were better than that dyed with nano pigment. The degree of air- permeability increased after the water-repellent finishing for most fabrics except twilled fabric which showed the opposite result. When it comes to the intrinsic stiffness, fabrics got stiff upon completion of processing but the one dyed with nano pigment turned out to be slightly more flexible than that with reactive ink, and the processed twilled cloth showed higher level of stiffness than the un-processed counterpart The water repellency against regular spraying was recorded 100 in all fabrics along with the oil repellency of class 4 to 5. When it comes to change in physical properties of silk fabrics by cross-linking agent, black color of reactive ink change showed the most significant change. The fabric with reactive ink showed higher air permeability and maintained intrinsic stiffness of 4, 8g/ℓ although it became sharply stiff in low concentration. The contact angle that indicates the water repellency was the highest in 8g/ℓ of concentration for all fabrics, and the one with nano pigment showed higher contact angle than that with reactive ink. In terms of change of color measured by the number of washing attempts, most significant change in color was seen in 10 washing attempts without adding, and the less the concentration of cross-linking agent was the higher the contact angle and the oil repellency got. On a test to find out if the concentration of water-repelling agent influences the physical property of silk fabrics, I found that the higher the concentration was the higher the coloring power got with the reactive ink and nano agent showing the highest value in 90g/ℓ and 40g/ℓ, respectively. The fabric dyed with the reactive ink showed higher air permeability. The intrinsic stiffness, which was high in low concentration increased at concentration of 40g/ℓ for the fabric with reactive ink and increased at concentration of 40g/ℓ before somewhat decreasing at 90 for the one with nano pigment. The water repellency of the fabrics with reactive ink and nano pigment was 100 at 40g/ℓ of concentration and at 10g/ℓ or above, respectively. On a test to find out about the correlation between repeated washing attempts and contact angle, I found that the lower the concentration of water repellent is the earlier the fabric got damp. The fabrics with the reactive ink and nano pigment showed pretty strong resistance against color change in 10 washing attempts at the concentration of 40g/ℓ or above and 10g/ℓ or above, respectively, and the one with the nano pigment showed higher level of contact angel and oil repellency than that of reactive ink. When it comes to change in physical properties in curing temperature, the fabric with reactive ink and nano pigment showed change in color at temperature of 120℃and 180℃, respectively. The fabric with reactive ink showed higher level of reactive ink. The intrinsic stiffness was the most similar to the original fabric at 120℃ but should be considered stable at 160℃ considering the water- and oil repellent effect. The fabric with the reactive ink showed 90 degree of water repellency at 105℃ and 120℃ in temperature and 100 at 160℃ or higher. The fabric with the pigment showed 100 degree of water repellency at all temperature ranges and colors except unprinted white at 105℃, which seems to indicate that the pigment increases the degree of water repellency. In terms of change in contact angles caused by repeated washing attempts, the one with the reactive ink got damp at 105 and 120℃, and the lower the curing temperature was, the earlier the fabric got damp. The fabric with nano pigment showed strong color durability at 120℃of curing. Overall, the fabric with nano pigment showed higher level of contact angle and oil repellency compared to that of reactive ink. I used Texpro, the most popular Textile CAD System in domestic market, in order to prepare the computer-aided development process for the digital printing to accommodate a new design approach based on these findings regarding functional characteristics of DTP fabrics. I came up with the design development process in vector mode and the use in Bitmap mode by carefully selecting designs based on the theme of Hot & Pattern for 2014 Summer Season and also developed five design patterns by theme.