朝鮮時代 妓女服의 造形的 分析 및 디자인 硏究

Abstract

This study vests in observing the aesthetic characteristics through the formative study of Kinyeo costume of Yi Dynasty and suggesting the direction of mode of ourselves by designing in accordance with the modern sense. As a theoretical basis for this study, the typical observation was made on decoration of the official dancing girls from their theoretical background, genre pictures, and literatures related to the Korean Dress and Ornaments, and formative analysis was made on them. The characteristics of Kinyeo Costume of Yi Dynasty as a result of observation is as stated below. First, The Kinyeo Costume as a daily living dress is not so different from our customs, but active and sensational, and various dress and ornaments other than simple and native dress and ornaments of the common people, and the court dress and ornaments strict to the dignity, and rule and form. Second, The official dancing girls as a characteristic status in the name of slaves of luxury was permitted to have the most luxurious dress and ornaments living. Third, this kind of dress and ornaments of official dancing girls was very popular at that time, and spread to the upper classes. On the basis of this study, the works are verily composed of 8 works with manufacture of total 5 works and 3 illustrations presented. In the actual works, the direct dying was performed to present our traditional color in oder to express our peculiar material, color and line by using the cotton, linen, silk, etc., referring the colors expressed in the genre paintings. As a result of works, the beauty of our dress and ornaments has the beauty of curved lines which is natural and soft, the soft harmony of lines coming from plain cutting, implicit distribution of colors coming from the low combination of colors, and found in enough and ample silhouette.;本 硏究는 朝鮮時代 妓女服에 나타난 造形的 分析을 통해 美的특성을 관찰하여 우리의 服飾美를 찾아 現代的 感覺에 어울리게 디자인하여, 우리다운 衣服의 방향을 제시하는 데 그 目的을 두고 있다. 이 硏究를 위한 理論的 基盤으로 먼저 妓女의 理論的 背景과 함께 風俗書와 朝國服飾史에 관계된 文獻에서 妓女의 着裝모습을 類型別로 관찰하여 造形的 分析을 하였다. 考察 結果, 朝鮮時代 妓女服의 특징을 열거하면 다음과 같다. 첫째, 日常 生活服으로서의 妓女服은 우리 國俗과 크게 다르지 않으나, 單純·素朴했던 庶民服飾과 또한 品位와 格式에 엄격했던 官中服飾과는 달리, 活動的이고 煽情的이며 多樣한 服飾을 이루고 있다. 둘째, 妓女는 奢侈奴隸라는 身分的 特殊性으로 인하여 최대한의 奢侈스러운 服飾生活이 허락되었다. 셋째, 妓女의 服飾은 당시 상당히 流行되어 上流層에까지 전해졌다. 이러한 硏究를 바탕으로 하여 作品은 8작품으로, 5점의 실물제작과 함께 3점의 일러스트레이션(Illustration)을 제시하였다. 실제작품에서는 우리 古有의 材料·色·線을 表現하기 위해 綿·麻·絹 등의 自然纖維를 사용하여 風俗畵에 나타난 色을 참고로 하여 직접 染色을 하였다. 作品 結果, 우리의 服飾美는 자연스럽고 유연한 曲線美와 低彩度에서 오는 은근한 色調의 配色, 그리고 넉넉하고 여유있는 실루엣(Silhouette)에서 찾을 수 있다.