繡裝身具의 美的考察

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to research Korean Women's value-system arid and aesthetic minds through the formative analysis of the Embroidered Ornaments in the second half of the Choson period. The quality of the Embroidered Ornaments is deemed to have close relations with the development of embroidery and ornament. The objects of this study are limited to the ones after the mid-Choson period, There are two reasons. One is that Embroidered Ornaments have been lost or destroyed by wars or natural calamities and through the vulnerability of the material, most of works extant today are from the late Choson dynasty. The other is that they have been developed greatly and became popular among lower classes after that time. The Embroidered Ornaments are classified into 15 types, i. e., Embroidered Pendant, Pulkususik, Ornamental Bag, etc. in this study. These formative factors are divided into ground material-textile, form, pattern, color, knot and tassel. We can recognize the economic condition and our ancestor's value-system and aesthetic sense through the analysis of the formative factors at that time. Next the aesthetic characteristics and the historical meanings in Korean dress are reviewed according to the factors. Also looking at these works, we can trace the life of our ancestors and sense the peaceful, gratified and emotional life which seemed to communicated itself to all the affairs of heaven and earth. The Embroidered Ornaments are mutually interdepended with the total fashion of Korean dress as accessories, therefore, the historical meanings of theirs must be more emphasized. And we appreciate again the aesthetic characteristics of theirs from today's viewpoints. They are apt to become shapeless, broken, faded and worn out. For these reasons, we must preserve all these historical relics, Embroidered Ornaments. I wish this thesis is contributed to recording them permanently and handing them down from generation t o generation in the future. That is an important subject of this thesis, too.;本 論文은 朝鮮時代 後半期 繡裝身具의 造形的 分析을 통하여 그 時代人들의 美意識과 價値體系를 考察한 것이다. 繡裝身具는 옷감에다 繡를 놓아 만든 만큼 刺繡의 發達과 一般 裝身具의 發達과는 밀접히 連繫되어 있다. 그 結果 本稿에서는 繡裝身具가 本格的으로 발달하여 대중에게 보급된 조선시대후기를 그 硏究時點으로 設定하였다. 繡裝身具의 분석대상은 繡노리개·繡佛具垂飾·繡주머니·繡굴레·繡조바위·繡남바위·繡댕기·繡바느질·繡안경집·眞珠扇·타래버선·繡鞋·繡돐띠·繡단추·繡토시등 15종을 대상으로 하였다. 繡裝身具의 조형적 要因으로는 繡裝材料 形態, 紋樣, 色, 매듭과 술이 있다. 이들 要因은 繡裝身具의 類型別로 나누어 分析하였는데, 纖維材料 分析을 통해서는 그 당시의 經濟的 狀況을, 形態와 紋樣 分析을 통해서는 當時人들의 價値體祭와 造形感覺을, 色 分析을 통해서는 美的 感覺을 알 수 있었다. 그 다음 繡裝身具가 가지고 있는 美的 特性과 服飾史的 意味를 造形要因別로 照明하였다. 繡裝身具는 服飾의 附隨物로서 전체 服飾과는 밀접한 相互 補完作用을 하고 있는 만큼 服飾史的 意味는 더욱 强調되어야 하겠다. 本稿는 繡裝身具의 美的 特性을 오늘의 시각에서 再評價하고 이를 우리의 생활속에 實用價値로 昇華시켜 傳承 發展시키는 것이 그 目的이다. 이것은 우리가 앞으로 追求하여야 할 重要한 課題이기도 하다.