朝鮮 通信使 服飾의 一硏究

Abstract

This study has been attempted to observe the style of dress and its ornaments of Chosun correspondence missions since Imjinoiran, and then to consider the real features of the dress system in the middle and the end of the Chosun dynasty. In Haehangchongjairecorded the 12 times missions and 6 pictures materials, the status of most dresses of males in the period of the dynasties is represented, and we can identify the real status of the dress and its ornaments in each class and in each way of living, and its differentiation. The sorts of the dress in each post indicated commonly in materials include chobok, danryung, dopo, simeui, Nansam, Hak-changeui in samsasinbok; danryungn, dopa in the dress of court noble; yungbog and nunbog in the dress of soldiers; Jageui urib in saryungbok. According to the pictures in 1711 and 1811, however, it is showed that the official uniform system with samo-danryung was replaced into that with samo-jugryung. In the respects of history of dress and its ornaments, this study has much distinctions compared vlith the achievements of the study until now.;本考는 圖繪와 文獻에 나타난 壬亂後 朝鮮通信使의 服節을 考察檢證하여 朝鮮中後期 服飾制度의 實狀을 고찰한 것이다. 壬亂後 12차례의 使行을 기록한 海行摠載와 6点의 圖繪 資料에는 朝鮮王朝時代 男服의 거의 모든 局面을 網羅하고 있어, 階級別 生活場面別 服飾生活의 實狀 그 分化 等을 確認할 수 있었다. 資料에 공통적으로 나타난 職分別 服飾種類를 들면, 三使信服으로는 朝服·團領·道袍·深衣·蘭衫·학창의, 堂上譯官 및 員役服으로 團領·道袍, 軍官 및 裨將服으로 戎服·軍服, 使令服으로 鵲衣羽笠 등이다. 그러나 1711年과 1811年 圖繪에는 紗帽-團領의 公服구성이 紗帽-直領의 形制로 바뀌어 나타났으며, 服飾史學의 측면에서 지금까지 硏究成果와의 특이점으로 ① 粱冠-朝服·胸背, ② 粱冠-團領, ③ 粱冠-團領·胸背 ④ 冠(?)-團領·胸背 ⑤ 紗帽-直領 ⑥ 紗帽-直領·胸背 ⑦ 笠-團領등 7가지의 새로운 대응을 들 수 있다.