우리나라 노리개에 關한 硏究

Abstract

本 論文은 女性의 裝身具의 一種인 노리개에 關하여 考察한 것이다. 現代에 이르러서는 우리의 固有衣裳인 韓服이 西洋文化의 移入에 따라 韓服의 着用은 社會的 活動에 適合치 않다 하여 점차 파티복 예복으로 着用하는 율이 높아져 가고 있다. 이에 따라 노리개는 韓服의 美를 더욱 빛내주는 裝身具로서의 役割이 점점 커져 더욱 그 價値는 重要視되고 있다. 이러한 現 時点에서 傳統노리개에 對한 認識을 새롭게 하고자 노리개의 起源과 用途 및 構成을 考察하였으며, 現在 남아있는 傳統노리개의 實物을 보고 材料別, 形態別, 文樣別로 나누어 分析해 보았다. 또한 現在 노리개 佩用에 對한 實態를 調査하여 우리 나라 女性의 佩用實態를 파악 규명하고자 하였다. 노리개는 저고리의 고름이나 안고름 또는 원삼이나 치마허리에 차는 것으로써 高麗中葉以後 蒙古 服飾의 영향으로 인하여 저고리 길이가 짧아지고 옷고름이 생기면서 始作되었으며 朝鮮時代에 들어와서 노리개의 本格的인 使用과 發達이 이루어졌다. 노리개의 起源으로는 오늘 날 볼 수 있는 노리개 形態와는 약간의 差異는 있지만 우리 祖上들이 日常生活에 必要한 用品을 허리띠에 늘이던 佩物에서 發生했을 것으로 본다. 이러한 노리개는 時代가 發展함에 따라 階級을 區別하는 表示로 使用되었고, 實用性에 裝飾性이 附加되어 그 用途는 매우 多樣하게 使用되었다. 노리개의 種類로는 宮中 王妃가 使用하던 大三作을 비롯하여 中三作·小三作과 單位노리개들이 있으며 여기에 使用된 材料도 여러 種類의 것이 있으나 金·銀·玉·蜜花·珊瑚·織物 및 絲가 많이 使用되었다. 특히 朝鮮時代에는 高麗時代의 佛敎文化 意識에서 벗어나 儒敎思想에 依한 社會構造와 男尊女卑思想 때문에 女性들의 社會生活에 많은 制約이 있었고, 女性들의 內面生活에는 巫俗信仰이 뿌리를 내리고 있었으므로 당시의 女人들은 現世의 求福에 依한 모든 念願과 民間信仰을 노리개에 表現하였다. 그러므로 노리개의 價値를 佩物의 材料에서 보다는 그 形態와 文樣에 內在되어 있는 意味에 더 두고 있었다. 그러나 오늘날에는 各 노리개가 象徵하는 意味나 實用性에서 보다는 美的이고 財産的 價値가 있는 것을 추구하는 경향이므로 앞으로의 韓服 着用時에 노리개의 必要性은 더욱 증가될 展望으로 보인다. 개화기 以後 外來文物에 밀려나 그 使用頻度가 점차 줄어들게 되었으나 자기의 個性을 나타내려고 하는 美的價値의 變化로 인해 現在는 다시금 노리개의 使用度가 높아지고 觀心度가 높아져 가고 있다.;This thesis is a consideration of plaything a kind of decorative accessory to women. In the modern times, Korean dress to be our unique clothes is not appropriate to our social activities to wear it in accordance with the introduction of Western culture and so regularly, is declined to the high fashion to wear party dress, ceremonial dress. Along with this declination, this plaything is enhanced further in playing a role of the decorative accessory to make bright of Korean dress and further regard as an important feature about the value. At this moment, to make it fresh for this traditional plaything, it was considered the origin, using method and composition of the plaything and presently analyzed, dividing into materials, shape and pattern after looking at this practical thing. Also, it researched the status for wearing the plaything at this time and tried to grasp the status of wear for the Korean women. This plaything was begun with occurence of jacket coat string, having been short of jacket due to influence of Mongorian dress style since the Middle part of the period of Korea dynasty, as a decorative accessory worn on long coat string of jacket, interior coat string, Wonsam(圓衫) or waist part of skirt and this plaything was advanced fundamentally to use after Chosun contemporary period. The origin of plaything is different by a little bit with the shape to be perceived in this modern time but seems to be occured from the decorative thing hung on waist string as accommodities needed to daily living of our ancestor. Such a plaything was used to wear as sign to discriminate the ranks in accordance with changeability of comtemporary period and the using width was quite multipurpose under an addition to the practical use. The sort of plaything is there Jungsamjak (中三作), Sosamjak(小三作) and Daesamj ak Danjak(大三作) playing including the Daesamjak(大三作) which the palace queen liked to wear. As materials used in this, there are a many kinds but was used to put in gold, silver, precious stone, Milhwa(蜜花), coral, cloth and yearns. Particularly in Chosun eras, it come off from Buddhistic culture in Korea contemporary period and a lot of woman had been limited in their social life because of social structure and predominance of men over women thought by the Confucianism and rooted down an exoristic mundane belief in the inside life of women. The comtemporary women expressed all hearts' desire and civil belief to the plaything according to the modern happiness seeking. Under such a circumstances, women was aimed at meaning to exist inside the shapr and pattern rather than from materials of decorative accessory when the plaything was appraised. Today, each of plaything, however, is declined to pursuing the beauteous value of plaything and property-value. It further means rather than meaning or practical use characteric of plaything. In future, need of plaything in wearing Korean dress, is expected to increase in the further fashion. After the blossom period, it was pushed out by the foreign culture and regularly decreased to be used but due to the changeability of beautiful value to intend showing the one's personality, it is increasing to be used and interested in plaything again to the present time.