「귀걸이·垂飾」에 대한 考察

Abstract

本考는 新羅時代 귀걸이를 中心으로 귀걸이의 着裝여부와, 귀걸이의 樣式을 통하여, 복식학적인 면에서 귀걸이 着用에 對한 고찰을 한 것이다. 資料는 新羅時代 細鎭式 귀걸이 40點과 太鎭式 귀걸이 20點, 19點의 古墳發掘調査報告書 가운데 31點의 圖面을 대상으로 했다. 新羅時代의 귀걸이는 한 4군의 영향을 받은 高句麗를 거쳐 新羅에 전해져 新羅의 귀걸이 樣式으로 發展된 것이다. 이것은 王家나 貴族을 中心으로 한 貴族文化의 한 일면이며, 이 중 귀걸이 着用에 대한 의문점이 제기되는 太鎭式 귀걸이의 경우, 圖面의 發掘位置나 構造的인 面을 살펴보면. 대부분 垂飾用으로 王이나 貴族들이 의래적인 행사때, 太鎭에 줄을 끼워 귀에 걸었거나, 副裝品으로 被葬者의 권위나 신분을 나타내기 위해 사용된 것으로 본다. 즉, 細鎭式 귀걸이는 實用的으로, 太鎭式 귀걸이는 垂飾的인 意味를 내포한 것임을 알 수 있다. 그리나 현재 着用되는 귀걸이는 新羅時代 귀걸이가 전해져 내러온 것이 아니라 西歐文化의 수용과정을 통해 유입된 服飾文化의 한 要素로 생각한다.;This thesis here is to identify the uses of the ear-ring in the Shilla dynasty, especially its styles and wearing. Forty of Se-hwan style ear-ring in Shilla dynasty, twenty of Tae-hwan style ear-ring and thirty-two drawings from the reports of old tombs unearthed were used as reference materials. The ear-ring was introduced into Shilla from Kokuryo who was influenced by Han. It was developed into its own style in Shilla dynasty. We can see one aspect of aristocratic culture in Shilla dynasty through the ear-ring. Tae-Hwan style ear-ring were worn by King and aristocrats in the ceremonial occasion according to the location excavated and the formal aspects. This Tae-Hwan style ear-ring was used to show their authority and ranking by putting on them on their clothes. The Se-hwan style ear-ring was worn around the ear by string inserted into the ear-ring Judging from this, Se-hwan style ear-ring was meant to be for practical use and Tae-Hwan style was meant to be for decoration. The ear-rings worn in these days aren't introduced from Shilla dynasty. They are one element of dress and ornaments which are came from western world.