한국 직령교임식포에 관한 연구

Abstract

本 論文은 韓國 直領交임式袍에 관한 硏究로서 우리나라 固有袍의 類型과 그 源流를 살펴보고, 三國時代 統一新羅時代 高麗時代 朝鮮時代에 착용한 直領交임式袍를 文獻 및 繪畵를 통해서 考察함과 아울러 袍의 實證的 分析을 出土된 遺衣로서 統計方法에 의한 分析을 하여 服飾史 硏究의 새로운 접근방법을 試圖한 것이다. 韓國 直領交임式袍는 겉옷을 통칭하는 表衣의 대명사로서 우리나라 固有의 袍이다. 우리나라 固有袍의 源流는 스키타이계 服飾으로서 유에서 變遷된 長유로 防寒用이나 儀禮用으로 着用되었던 것으로 推定된다. 따라서 이와같은 直領交임式 長유形態의 袍는 三國時代以前부터 朝鮮時代까지 着用되었다는 記錄이 文獻에 보이며 壁畵나 繪畵에서 볼 수 있다. 그런데 朝鮮時代에는 여러가지 袍가 變遷하게 되는데, 즉 直領袍 帖裏 道袍 창의（大창의 中致莫 小창衣 鶴창衣）周衣 등이다. 그러나 다양한 直領交임式袍는 朝鮮時代 末, 廣袖의 袍를 禁하는 衣服改革으로 우리나라 服飾의 특징을 周衣로서 계승하게 되었다. 또한 出土된 直領交임式袍의 遺衣로서 袍의 種類別 分析과 時代別 分析을 19개의 변수로 하여 回歸分析, 要因分析, 分散分析 등 統計方法에 의한 分析을 한 結果는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 袍의 種類別에 따라 변화된 경향은 일반적으로 소매넓이가 점점 커져 廣袖化가 되었고, 총길이 고대 진동등의 변화는 적었다. 둘째, 各 部位의 相關分析은 袍의 時代와 種類에 따라서 달리 分析되었고, 回歸分析으로 遺衣의 缺損部位 値數 및 原型製圖할 때 필요한 部位의 數値를 산출할 수 있다. 셋째, 種類가 확실하지 않은 袍를 判別分析한 結果, 주로 靑衫과 直領袍는 直領袍로 분류되고, 紅衣는 周衣로 分類되었다. 그리고 時代의 變遷에 따라 영향을 받는 변수들을 찾아 時代를 분류할 수 있는 판별함수를 제시하였다. 넷째, 창衣를 집락분석과 요인분석후 도해분석한 결과, 5점 （傳朴將軍, 흥선대원군, 우리옷의 보존을 위해 後代에 제작된 3점）은 분리되어 분석되었다. 다섯째, 시대에 따라 변하는 각 부위의 치수에 대하여 分散分析한 結果, 소매넓이, 고름길이, 고름넓이, 안섶넓이 上, 겉섶넓이 上등이 시대에 따라 유의한 차이가 있는 것으로 分析되었다. ; The purpose of this thesis is to examine Chikryongkyoimshik Po（which has a straight collar and the mode of proper adjusting）, its origin and its types. It deals with various kinds of Po’s throughout Korean history, i.e. from the Three States, Great Silla, Koryo to the Yi Dynasty, reviewing records and paintings. Particularly, in this study I propose a new approach to the study of Korean Costume history which includes a statistical method used in the practical measurement of excavated Po’s and the analysis of their quantitative changes. Korean original Po, a popular name for traditional outer garments, belongs to Chikryongkyomishik Po. It originates from Scythian style costume, Zang Yoo, which is an improved form of the ancient Yoo. It is presumed that it had been worn in winter times or in ceremonies. Examining the literature, we can find the records saying that chilryongkyoimshik Po of Zang yoo type had been worn from before the Three States to the Yi Dynasty, several other Po’s emerged: Zikryeong Po, Chumi, Changui, Do Po and Jooui. However in the later Yi Dynasty, a Costume Innovation which prohibited the Po with broad sleeves was proclaimed by the government. Consquently, Do Po , Changui, Chumi and Zikryeong Po with broad sleeves worn by officials when they were off duty were replaced by Jooui with tight sleeves. Since that time, Jooui has become the only successor of the traditional Korean costume, Chilryongkyoimshik Po. In the framework used in this study, I depend on the nineteen variables picked out from the typological and chronological analysis of excavated clothes. The interrelationship of the variable as well as the standard of each part and its deviation in other forms are my main concern. Other methods are also very useful in my thesis: Correlation analysis, Regression analysis, Discrimination analysis, Culture analysis, Factor analysis, One way analysis of variance. The findings of my study can be summarized as follows 1. Every type of Po has a general tendency to have more broadened sleeves, while it does not show any considerable changes in the total length and in the width of armholes. 2. In the Correlation analysis, each part of Po’s is handled separately according to its chronology and type. The Regression analysis makes it possible to provide the sizes of missing parts in excavated clothes and the numerical value of each part needed in the pattern making. 3. The discrimination analysis of the Po’s whose types are unknown leads to the conclusion that Chongsam and Chikryong Po are classified into Chikryong Po whereas Houngui in claassified into Jooui. In addition, I propose discriminational function by which the age classification is possible, discovering the variable associated with time change. 4. Five items-General Park’s clothes, Taewongun’s clothes and three others produced later for the purpose of preserving Korean costume, are proved to be in a different group and hence analyzed separately in the visual grouping of Changui, which is done after the Cluster analysis and the Factor analysis. 5. The results of the one way analysis of variance reveal that there is a difference in each part from period ; the back width, the sleeve length, the sleeve width, the lean figure, the breast-tie length, the breast-tie width, outside quesset upper, inside quesset lower, outside neckband length, inside neckband legnth etc.