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조선후기 복식발달의 요인 연구

조선후기 복식발달의 요인 연구
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대학원 의류직물학과
이화여자대학교 대학원
本 論文은 社會變動이 文化의 한 要素인 服飾發達에 미친 影響을 硏究한 것으로 社會變動의 模型中에서 機能論的 模型에 葛藤模型을 接木시킨 葛藤論的 機能論의 觀點에서 朝鮮後期 服飾發達의 要因을 分析하였다. 朝鮮 後期는 社會全域에서 壬辰·丙子 兩亂을 契機로 加速化된 變化現象이 登場되었다. 戰爭으로 인한 國家制度의 紊亂 및 身分制度 解體가 나타났으며, 農業技術의 發達과 商業·貨幣經濟의 發達로 인해 富를 享有한 中人階層이 登場했다. 또한 統治理念이자 觀念形態인 儒敎論理의 弱化現象과 庶民文藝의 發達, 實學思想의 擡頭등이 登場했다. 이러한 現象으로 服飾에서는 朝廷의 實用的이고 技能的인 服飾制度 實施와 服飾制度의 簡素化 政策이 實施되었으며 奢侈現象이 一般化되어 社會的 物議를 빚게 되었다. 또한 儒敎論理의 弱化와 함께 道德性(Modesty)이 弱化되면서 裝飾性(Decoration)과 에로티시즘(Eroticism)이 出現되었다. 綿織物은 發達되었으나 相對的으로 絹織物은 低調한 發達을 하였다. 社會全域에서 일어난 庶民意識의 廓大와 더불어 庶民服飾文化가 부각되면서 服飾의 流行現象이 出現되었고 이러한 흐름은 服飾의 上向傳播現象을 낳게 되었다. 朝鮮後期 社會變動의 諸 要因들 사이에서 發生되는 葛藤이 빚어낸 産物인 이러한 服飾現象은 다음과 같은 特徵으로 分析된다. 實用化 樣相과 奢侈樣相, 兩班層 服飾文化와 庶民層 服飾文化가 동시에 存在하는 二重的 構造를 지닌다. 道德性(Modesty)과 裝飾性(Decoration)·에로티시즘(Eroticism)이 相反된 關係로 나타난다. 男子服飾은 役割葛藤에 의한 變貌 現象이 支配的이고, 女子服飾은 規範葛藤에 의한 變貌現象이 支配的이다. 社會變動에 수반되는 葛藤은 服飾發達을 유도하며, 社會 安定化 努力의 추세에 의해 服飾變化 現象도 점차 安定化되면서 發達하는 경향을 보인다. 따라서 朝鮮後期 社會 全般의 흐름과 脈을 같이 하면서 服飾發達도 英·正祖代에 절정을 이루는 特性을 보인다. ; In this thesis, the influence of social change upon the Dress & Personal Adornments, an clement of culture, is studied and the factor of the development of Dress & Personal Adornments in the latter period of Yi-Dynasty is analyzed from the point of view of conflictive-functional theory, united form of functional model and conflictive one among the various models of social change. Throughout the society of the latter period of Yi-Dynasty, social phenomena were changing greatly. Especially, after the two great wars-Japanese Invasion in 1592 & Chinese Invasion in 1637 ? broke out, their change was accelerated rapidly. Those two wars brought about the disorder of national systems as well as that of social position. Also, the development of agricultural technology and economy gave birth to middle class possessing wealth. Therefore, Confucianism-ruling ideology and the form of idea of Yi-Dynasty began to lose its color, common people’s literature and art flourished and practical science raised its hand. These facts caused the government to execute the practical functional system and the simplification policy of Dress & Personal Adornments, and generalized extravagant tendency of life style gave rise to dispute. Decoration and Eroticism were created as Modes weakened. Relatively, the technique of cotton and silk fabrics did not approve and the culture of commoners’ dress and personal adornments appeared with commonality consciousness spreading all over the society. These situations made “Fashion of Dress & Personal Adornments,” and the trend of diffusion toward upper side appear. These phenomena which resulted from the conflict due to the elements of social change in the latter period of Yi-Dynasty are analyzed into the following characteristics: 1. The Dual System existed. That, is practical and luxurious phases coexisted, the culture of Dress & Personal Adornments of the ruling class and that of the humbler class coexisted. 2. Modesty versus Decoration and Eroticism appeared contrary to each other. 3. The style of Dress and Personal Adornments for men was changed by role conflict and that for women by norm conflict. 4. The conflict accompanied by the social change leads to the development of Dress & Personal Adornments, and the phenomenal of the change in Dress & Personal Adornments also develops, gradually being settled by the trend of making efforts for the social stability. Therefore, with the general tendency of society in the latter part of Yi-Dynasty, the development of Dress & Personal Adornments comes to a peak in maturity during reign of King Young Jo(英祖)& Jung Jo(正祖)
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