자하 하디드 건축의 조형적 특성을 응용한 현대 패션 디자인 연구

Abstract

In modern society, global changes in various areas including politics, economy, and society have brought about huge changes to culture and art. The acceleration of changes to the formative styles in art, in particular, has suggested new directions toward cultural trends of diverse expressions. In addition, the trends of various genres have competed against each other and grown together through confrontations and conflicts. In this age, cultural art exists as an overall formative style being interconnected and maintains mutually supplementary relationships instead of coexisting with each other as individual and independent objects. Food, clothing, and shelter required to meet basic human needs serve more than the physiological needs of dressing, eating, and sleeping; they not only serve practical needs of better dressing, greater eating, and more beautiful living, but also have aesthetic values of their own. Clothes and architecture have long developed together as part of the products of human acts. Architecture and fashion especially share fundamental elements in that both of them set out to express three-dimensional formativity starting with such concepts as space, movement, and human body. Although they seem to exist in different styles on the outside, they affect each other, become an inspiration to each other, and have the common functional relationships through their elements in each area. Clothing is a three-dimensional formative work to express infinite human imagination and emotions in an orderly manner with a tool of two-dimensional fabric, in which sense it shows visual formative styles, aesthetic subjects, or common meanings in arts in a certain period as well as architecture. Being called space art, architecture represents a construction process of dealing with certain situations and designing in general. In other words, it presents safe and pleasant space and technological development, which are part of the essence of architecture, and creative meanings that contain the artistic sense of the space itself by taking proper materials in the most rational fashion. There have been ongoing discussions about the similarity in form and structure between fashion and architecture. Just like fashion is worn on the human body, architecture is worn in a structure called space. In recent years the boundaries between the fashion and architecture terminology have increasingly become blurry; while fashion criticisms often use such words as "structural" "formative" and "architectural," architects have begun to adopt such fashion terms as "folding," "draping," "layering," and "printing." In fashion, artistry does not just seek after beauty; it utilizes lines and forms in distinctive ways in addition to practicality to create unique styles. In architecture, they complete a building with a distinctive style as well as a space with great functions to complete its own form. Recent years has witnessed architects generate results through a creative process using diverse form techniques. Their works combine heterogeneous elements beyond the conventional order and discipline and show distorted forms, being characterized as being instable, asymmetrical, and non-rhythmical. Deconstructivist architecture, which presents non-geometric free curves and irregular forms as well as curves, demonstrates a new challenge to the conventional architectural thinking as a new approach. It is not that the styles are changing in the concept of architecture; architects are arousing people's attention to modern architecture in a revolutionary way by finding and substantiating truth hidden in the old prevalent styles and norms. Among those architects, Jaha Hadid, who is an Iraqi female architect who is known for her diverse new attempts such as structurally distorted and irregular lines, smooth curves, and bold surface segmentation, has attracted much attention lately. Her original and experimental designs have earned her great reputations and promoted her as an architect that is excessively beyond the boundaries of conventions. She has shown her unique exceptional, soft, and dynamic space aesthetics. Recently it was reported that she would design the Dongdaemun Design Plaza at Dongdaemun, one of Korea's fashion meccas. The news will direct further attention to her works. This study set out to theoretically examine Jaha Hadid and consider and apply her formative form aesthetics to modern fashion design. It first analyzed her background and works as part of a general consideration of the architect; and secondly, it analyzed the formative beauty of her works by considering her formative characteristics and further the cases of modern fashion design where the formative principles were applied as well as such architecture, industrial design, and latest collections. Those theoretical research efforts led to the following conclusions to show her formative characteristics: First, she created overlapping effects by repeating or overlapping the vertical structures made up of hexahedrons in piles, sizes of figures, surfaces, and lines in one space, thus presenting space forms in more diverse ways. Second, many of her works contain the formative beauty whose attributes include fluid continuity whose streamlined structure is exposed as a formative element with movement. Third, her works also have porous formative characteristics, which are represented by the design with a hole in the massive form. Finally, she transformed the old conventional images and forms and created elements that were not regular or bound to forms and included irregular formativity. An examination of her works created in those principles and elements provided the following conclusions: First, the overlapping principle was adopted and applied to a work, which turned out to have more mass and volume to the silhouette. Secondly, the dynamic streamlined formative aesthetics found in Hadid's works was applied to a work, which had the surface segmented through piping and highlighted its controlled details and soft silhouette as much as possible. Thirdly, the cutout technique was applied to a work with porous nature as a formative element. As a result, the work turned out to show practical, modern, and distinctive beauty. Finally, creative ideas were generated by applying irregular and asymmetrical details based on irregular formative elements as motives. Although there have been many researches on architecture and fashion, few dealt with demonstrationist architecture and fashion beyond the old conventional or traditional frameworks. Research efforts were especially lacking in the study of fashion and Jaha Hadid, who has recently attracted attention by showing the most innovative and progressive design. This study will hopefully be followed by many more active researches on the modern fashion design that applies structural silhouettes and formative patterns inspired by her works.;우리가 살아가는 시대의 문화적인 예술 즉 건축, 패션, 음악, 무용 등은 하나의 개체로서 독립적인 존재로 공존하는 것이 아니라 서로 상호 연계하여 통합적인 조형 양식으로 존재 하면서 상호 보완적 관계를 유지하고 있다. 건축과 패션은 인간행위의 소산으로 오랜 역사 동안 발전하여 왔으며, 인간과 직접적으로 관계한다는 측면에서 상관성을 보이며, 인간의 신체, 공간과 운동의 개념을 출발점으로 삼고 있다. 이처럼 건축과 패션은 매우 밀접한 유사성을 갖고 서로 영감의 근원이 되면서 표현되어 왔다. 최근 건축가들은 다양한 형태 기법으로 창의적인 과정을 통해서 결과물을 얻고 있다. 즉 기존의 질서와 규율에서 벗어나서 이질적인 요소들을 결합하고, 형태적으로 뒤틀려 있어 불안정함과 비대칭적인 특징을 갖고 있다. 그 중 구조적으로 비틀리고 불규칙한 라인뿐만 아니라 유연한 곡선, 과감한 면 분할을 다양하게 시도 하고 있는 이라크 출신 여성 건축가 자하 하디드 가 최근 많은 주목을 받고 있다. 그녀는 독창적이고 실험적인 디자인으로 관습을 넘고 있는 건축가로 알려지면서 특유의 파격적이면서도 부드러운 역동적인 공간 미학을 보여준다. 이에 본 연구는 자하 하디드 건축 작품에서 나타내는 조형적 특성을 형태, 재질, 색채로 분류하여 형태적인 측면에서 나타내는 조형적 특성을 현대 패션 디자인에 응용하여 아이디어가 독창적인 조형적인 디자인을 제시하고자 한다. 문헌과 학술연구지, 패션 전문지, 인터넷과 같은 이론적 연구를 통해 고찰하여 본 자하 하디드 건축의 조형적 특성은 다음과 같다. 각각의 의미는 첫째, 육면체의 형태를 쌓아 올린 수직적인 구조와 도형의 크기, 면과 선이 한 공간 속에서 반복되거나 겹침에 의해서 중첩 효과가 나타냄으로써 공간의 형태가 더욱 다양하게 보이는 중첩적인 조형적 특성이 나타냄을 알 수 있었다. 둘째, 유동성을 지닌 조형적 요소로써 유선형의 구조가 외부로 노출되는 유동적인 연속성을 지닌 형태미가 자하 하디드 의 건축물에서 많이 보여 지고 있음을 알 수 있었다. 셋째, 양감 있는 형태 속에 구멍 뚫린 디자인으로 보여주는 다공적인 조형적 특징을 알 수 있었다. 넷째, 기존의 관습적 이미지나 형태를 변형 시켜서 정형적이지 않고 형식에 얽매이지 않은 비정형적인 조형성을 지닌 요소가 있음을 알 수 있었다. 이를 토대로 제작된 작품을 통해 얻은 결론은 다음과 같다. 첫째, 중첩적인 원리를 사용하여 작품에 적용한 결과, 디테일에 더욱 풍성한 부피감과 볼륨 감을 보여줄 수 있었다. 둘째, 자하 하디드의 작품에서 보여줬던 유동적인 유선형 형태미를 작품에 적용하여 파이핑 으로 면 분할 효과를 주어서 절제된 디테일과 유연한 실루엣을 최대한 살릴 수 있었다. 셋째, 다공 성이라는 조형적 요소를 영감으로 작품에 컷 아웃 된 기법을 적용하여 실용적이고 현대적인 개성 미를 보여주는 작품을 표현 할 수 있었다. 넷째, 비정형적이라는 조형적 요소를 모티브로 불규칙하고 비대칭적인 디테일을 응용하여 창의적인 아이디어를 얻을 수 있었다. 지금까지 건축과 패션에 관한 연구는 많이 이루어졌으나 기존의 관습이나 전통적인 틀에서 벗어난 해체주의 건축과 패션에 관한 연구는 부족한 실정이다. 그 중에서도 가장 혁신적이고 진보적인 디자인을 선보이면서 최근에 주목 받고 있는 건축가 자하 하디드와 패션에 관한 연구 실정은 미흡한 상태이다. 이에 본 연구를 계기로 자하 하디드의 건축물에서 영감을 받은 현대 패션 디자인 연구가 더욱 활성화되기를 기대해 본다.