宵衣에 關한 考察

Abstract

本 論文은 深衣와 더불어 士家의 婦人 禮服이었던 宵衣에 대하여 考察한 것이다. 朝鮮王朝는 儒學을 指導理念으로 하여 모든 體制를 中國制度를 모방하여 왔는데 事大拜華의 儒學者들이 女服制度는 高麗때의 胡의 服裝을 變改하지 못하였다고 하여 中華의 制度로 고치려고했던 노력의 一端이 ?齊 朴 珪壽가 저술한 「居家雜服考」이다. 환제는 女服이 變改되지 못한것은 새로운 制度가 制定였기 때문이라 하면서 經傳과 先賢들의 說을 근거로 하여 萬曆以前에 士家에서 婦人禮服이었던 宵衣를 制定했다. 이러한 「居家雜服考」를 中心으로 하여 宵衣를 살펴보았다. 宵衣는 中國에서 그 由來가 상당히 오래되어 周以前부터 있었던 것으로 추측된다. 우리나라에 언제 傳來되었는지 정확한 年代는 알 수 없으나 新羅時代에 唐의 服飾을 들여 옴으로써 부터였다고 할 것이다. 深衣는 中國歷代를 통하여 계속 襲用되어져 왔고 거의 모든 衣服을 만드는데 원본이 되었다. 그 중에서도 특히 台婦의 六服은 深衣制에 의거하여 만들었고 長抱類가 禮服化하게 된 始原이 되는 것으로 朝鮮王朝의 儒學者들의 法服으로 崇尙되어 冠婚喪祭의 家禮에 禮服으로 使用되었던 것이다. 이러한 深衣와 마찬가지로 婦人의 禮服도 深衣制度로 만들었는데 그 중의 하나가 宵衣인 것이다. 宵衣는 上衣와 下裳을 連하여 色을 同一하게 하여 深衣制度처럼 만들어서 冠(계)禮 婚禮의 見□姑□ 祭祀, 賓客, 媤父母를 섬길때 등의 禮服으로 着用하였고 훈비을 둘러 비의라고 하여 婚禮服으로 또한 襲衣로서도 使用되었다고 본다. 「居家雜服考」에 依하면 宵衣는 婦人禮服의 始作이므로 六服의 根本이 되고 士는 天子와 公侯가 근본으로하는 연유가 되기 때문에 옷도 근본이 되는 것을 士妻의 服으로 삼았던 것이다. 또 婚姻이란 人倫의 始作이며 萬代의 根本이므로 婚禮服도 근본을 이루는 宵衣를 착용하는 것이 마땅하다고 한다. 이러한 宵衣에 교접하여 서로 의지 한다는 뜻을 가진 훈비을 둘러 비의, 또는 純衣라고 했던 것이며 大衣 長衫 즉 圓杉 長衫 및 花冠과 함께 使用되었던 것이다. 宵衣는 上衣와 下裳을 각각 따로 재단하여 合經한 것으로 人體의 자연적인 길이에 따라 縫製함을 원칙으로 하여 몸전체가 넓고 소매가 넉넉하여 몸을 깊숙히 휩쌀 수 있다. 宵衣의 材料로 黑色의 초□의 종류로 만들기 때문에 초衣라고도 읽는다. 안감으로는 索紗를 사용하였다. 「居家雜服考」에 依하면 綠은 靑이나 絳으로 해야 하는데 綠衣가 赤綠이므로 宵衣는 靑色으로서 領袖口, 裳邊에 □을 두른다. 또 宵衣에 따르는 首飾으로는 黑色의 □계, 總이 있으며 허리에는 帶를 매고 □帶에 雜佩를 묶어 찬다. 또한 裳의 色에 따라 黑屢를 신는다. 이렇게 옛婦人의 禮服이 上衣와 下裳을 連하고 그것에 따르는 附屬物로 衣色에 맞추어 同一하게 한것은 婦人은 質□하고 오로지 한결같음을 崇尙하여 여러가지를 겸하는 것이 없어야 하기 때문이다. 이러한 禮裝들은 禮家에서 입는 뜻있는 옷으로 儉索하였던 것이 점점 화려해 진것을 알 수 있다. 이렇게 中國系統의 禮裝들은 통일신라이후 고려 조선왕조를 통한 오랜 시일을 겪으면서 다분히 制式 制圖面에서 國俗護하였던 것으로 深衣制度로 된 禮服이 현실생활에서의 간편성과 적용의 필요에 따란 通衣裳인 袍의 制度로 변한 것이라 생각된다.;This thesis is a study of the Simeui and Soeui which was a full dress of the nobilities' women. All of the manners in the Yi dynasty were made by imitating those of China. So Confucianists, who rendered service to China, intended to change the women's dresses which had been designed in Koryo dynasty. The "Geoga chop bokgo", which was written by Park Kyu Soo, was one of the attempt to change. Whanjae Park Kyu Soo thought since the system was not improved. women's dresses could not be changed. He based his theory on old books and he made Soeui which had been a full dress of the nobilities' women before ManLyuk. This thesis was studied centering around the "Geoga chopbokgo" The origin of Soeui was a very long time, that was before Ju dynasty in China. In our country, it was transmitted from Dong dynasty through dress and its ornament in sinra dynasty. This Silmeui had been put on through all the times of China and was the original text of all the dress. Especially the court attire and silkworm working dross of Empress, and the court attire and underwear court attire of Emperor were also made out of this Sineui, therefore, these were a origin of the ceremonial dress which formed into long coat. This Simeui was one of the women's dresses which was made by Simeui system. The Soeui was followed by the court attire and six ceremonial dresses of Empress, and it was made same as Daneui after removing the figure in the dress of Empress. The Soeui was made like a Simeui system. an upper garment and a lower skirt wore connected and they were same color. The Soeui had been used as a coming-of-age ceremony attire, a sacrificial rites attire, a good luck dress to the common people, and a ceremonial dress to the parents of her husband. And it had been used as a Shroud or a marriage ceremony suit after surrounding it with Whonyeum. According to "Geoga chop bokgo", Soeui was made a full dress of the nobilities' women, because it was a basis of six ceremonial dresses and the court attire of Empress. And it was natural that Soeui had been used a marriage ceremony suit because marriage was a beginning of morals and the origin of all generations. It had been called Sooneyi or Yeumeui after surrounding it with whonyeum and it had been used with Daneui and Chang Koon such as WonSam, Chang Sam and WhakWan. The Soeui was cut in seperate and then was stitched together in one piece. Its length reached to the ankle bone and it was made that the body could be wrapped deeply in broad width and large sleeves. Soeui could be called Choeui because it was made from a kind of thin silk(ehojeung) and the Sosa was used as lining material. According to "Geoga chap bokgo" the Soeui had a blue line around the lapel, the sleeve band, and the edge of skirt. This Soeui was usually attendant a black Sa, an ornamental hair pin or a Chong on a head and belt made of cloth and blaok shoes. Like this, it was a custom that women wore a full dress which was connected and was gone with ornaments, And it was, a symbol that women were plain and constant. These full dresses were put on in nobilities. Originally they had been plain but as time pessed by, they had become splendid. These full dresses especially had been changed in draffing and the methoud of draffing. through Sinra, Koryo and the Yi dynasty. And it had been changed in case of necessity of convenience and application, into a Korean overcoat system.