떡살 紋樣을 응용한 현대의상 개발에 관한 硏究

Abstract

The appearance of pattern has begun together with the creation of human race. As the decoration is similiar to the instinct human being, his aesthetic Level is greatly enhanced in the modern times when human culture has rapidly been developed, and the concept of design becomes necessary in the dietary life. Most of People in the present abundant material civilization require for new design to recover the humanity and to create the abundant space of living and new nature. In other hand, efforts to find out things are actively made. In Korea, exterior elements tend to be avoided and our unique designs are willing to be pursued, not only in the industrial design, but also in the dress. Due to the geographical condition as a Peninsula adjacent to the continent, Korea had been influenced from the chinese culture throughout many periodic changes. This study examines the history and procedure of change of various pattern represented in industrial articrafts related to our ancestors living and applies the patterns in Ddok Sal, which make us feel the formative and modern sense. The methodologies and objectives of the study are as follows: 1. To examine the patterns of Korea according to the times and types expressed in all industrial articrafts from the animal figures and geometric patterns drawn on ancient caves or walls several thousand-years ago. 2. To observe the origin and motives of the pattern contained from the ancient times most equally. 3. To analyze their sorts through the contents of the pattern and collected models. 4. To create the design which is the most unique in Korea with adding the modernity to the various patterns in Ddok Sal through dying, to develop the Korean style, and to show the superiority and creativity of ancient Korean beauty.;本 論文에서는 옛부터 우리 祖上들의 生活과 密接한 관계를 맺어온 各種 工藝品들에 나타난 多樣한 絞樣들의 由來와 變遷過程을 살펴보고 그 중에서도 가장 造形的이고 現代的인 感覺마저 느낄 수 있는 떡살에 나타나 있는 紋樣을 應用하여 보기로 했다. 그 硏究方法은 다음과 같다 1. 紋樣의 발달이 가장 활발했던 朝鮮時代에 있어서 모든 工藝品에 施紋된 紋樣을 全體的으로 살펴본다. 2. 上古時代부터의 紋樣을 가장 골고루 갖추고 있는 떡살의 紋樣에 대해서 그 紀元說 및 發生動機를 알아본다. 3. 떡살紋樣이 담고 있는 內容과 蒐集된 떡살의 사진을 통해 그 種類를 分析해 본 결과 크게는 幾何形紋樣과 動物絞樣, 植物形紋樣으로 나눌 수가 있었으며 세부적으로는 빗살紋, 吉祥文字紋, 卍字紋, 花紋, 花心빗살紋등 총14종류의 紋樣 103點을 모을 수 있었다. 4. 떡살에 施紋되어 온 各種의 紋樣中에서 鶴紋을 비롯해서 幾何形紋樣, 卍字紋, 圓心紋, 植物紋, 빗살紋, 吉祥紋, 花紋, 動物紋, 圓心빗살紋 등을 現代的으로 變型시킨 다음 여러 紋樣을 復合하여 새로운 디자인을 개발해 보았다. 프린팅 방법으로는 捺染을 택했으며 絞樣을 살리기 위하여 全體的인 실루엣은 극도로 단순화시켰다. 그러한 과정을 거쳐 열가지의 패턴에 27點의 作品을 完成하게 되었다.