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DTP 기법을 활용한 지속가능한 텍스타일디자인 개발 연구

Title
DTP 기법을 활용한 지속가능한 텍스타일디자인 개발 연구
Other Titles
A Study on Appearance Representation in Textile Design Using Sustainable DTP Method
Authors
조윤해
Issue Date
2018
Department/Major
대학원 의류학과
Publisher
이화여자대학교 대학원
Degree
Master
Advisors
김종준
Abstract
21세기 패션은 기능성, 실용성만을 필요로 하는 것이 아니다. 다양한 소비계층의 원츠(wants)와 니즈(needs)를 충족시키기 위해 customization이 필요한 시대이다. DTP는 Digital Textile Printing으로 필요한 부분에만 프린팅 할 수 있고 "Drop on Demand"의 하이앤드 기술력(High-end Technology)이다. DTP의 지속가능성(Sustainability)는 원단에 직접 프린팅 하므로 전처리 후처리 과정을 최소화 할 수 있고 고압, 폐수 등의 환경오염 물질들을 줄일 수 있어 친환경적이다. Digital Textile Printing의 또 다른 장점으로는 복잡하고 세밀한 디테일까지 빠른 시간 안에 묘사할 수 있어 공정 시간을 최대한으로 단축시킨다는 점이다. DTP의 지속가능성(Sustainability)은 원단에 직접 프린팅 하므로 전처리 후처리의 과정을 최소화할 수 있고 고압, 폐수, 고열 등을 줄일 수 있으며 환경 친화적이며 복잡하며 세밀한 디테일까지 빠른 시간 안에 묘사할 수 있어 공정 시간을 단축시키는 이점이 있다. 따라서 현대 패션 시장에서 DTP 기술력은 첫째, 맞춤 생산을 가능하게 하며 다품종 제품군을 짧은 시간 안에 유통할 수 있게 함으로 다양한 제품군과 신상품의 회전율을 빠르게 유지시킬 수 있다. 둘째, 시장에서 제품을 차별화 시키고 소비자의 시선과 호기심을 사로잡을 수 있는 제품군 실현화에 활용도 높은 필수 기술력이다. 본 연구에서는 빠른 생산과 시장 유통을 가능하게 하고 생산과정에서 오염을 줄이고 자원을 절약할 수 있도록 친환경 소비를 유지하게 하는 DTP(Digital Textile Printing) 기술력을 활용하기 위해 브랜드 인지도(Brand Royalty)가 확고한 알렉산더 맥퀸(Alexander McQueen)의 크리에이티브 디렉터(creative director)인 사라 버튼(Sarah Burton)이 디렉팅한 2012S/S~2017F/W 컬렉션을 분석한다. 이론적 배경을 통하여 일관성 있는 컬러와 패턴 전개 방식을 연구하고 DTP(Digital Textile Printing) 실제 제작 및 textile 외관 재현을 통해 디자인 연구와 지속가능성(Sustainability)을 위한 기술력의 응용력에 대한 고찰을 해본다. 연구 방식으로는 Textile Design에 중점적으로 필요한 이론적 배경 연구를 통해 디자인 전개를 한 후 실물제작과정을 거쳐 3D화 하였다. 2D를 3D화하는 과정에서 발생할 수 있는 디자인외관연구를 통해 발생할 수 있는 오차범위를 줄일 수 있는 기초 연구 자료를 위해 외관의 첨예도, 날염도, Bluriness, CIE L*a*b*, 델타 E값의 분석을 했다. DTP의 활발한 상용화를 위해서 디자인 외관 연구에 사용되는 방식은 Intertek사의 견뢰도 검사를 통해 세탁견뢰도, 마찰견뢰도, 땀 견뢰도, 해수 견뢰도, 일광견뢰도를 확인한다. 연구를 위해 사용된 실험재료로는 Jenoptik 현미경, CCD 300만화소 카메라, Image J, Plugins Interactive 3D Surface Plot, Photoshop CS, Natural Color System, Hot Press이다. 본 연구에서 Concept에서 product production까지 사용된 Digital Textile Printing 방식은 Direst Printing 의 DTG (Direct Textile Printing on Garment) 직접 분사 방식이며 Sublimation 방식은 Epson F7000을 통해 승화전사를 하였다. 프린트 방식의 차이와 연구의 한계를 고찰하고 후속연구의 발전방향에 대해 알아보았다.;DTP is a method available for transcribing only in a necessary section as a method of “drop on demand,” thereby being shortened the process of engraving, drawing and color-making, resulting in the eco-friendly high-end technology available for being integrated into the development of digital textile by which this leads to being capable of reducing waste paste and waste water. This study aims to inquire into DTP technology, which makes it available for eco-friendly consumption so that resources can be saved with causing the less contamination in fast production, market distribution, and production process. Thus, it researches into consistent color and pattern development method through analyzing 2012S/S~2017F/W collections led by Sarah Burton who is a creative director of Alexander McQueen whose brand awareness is firm. This leads to considering applicability of technology with digitalizing product lifespan for sustainability along with a research of design appearance through actually producing DTP and reviving textile. An element of being emphasized in DTP is quality. The commercialization that design is clearly printed on the fabric to be converged technology with media requires the design development of involving brand identity, fastness & excellent pre-treatment, process stage, and post processing. Also, output comes to be different even depending on a textile type, on a direct transfer method and a sublimation printing method of corresponding to DTP method, on specimen density, on yarn twist dye, and on color system. Thus, a research on textile appearance characteristic is demanded. Accordingly, this study inquired into dye-ability according to surface characteristics through selecting specimens and silk materials with plain weave, twill, satin in 20su, 40su, 60su with different density of 100% cotton. As a result of having analyzed Alexander McQueen's Spring/Summer, Fall/Winter Collections in 2012 ~ 2017, a black color could be observed to be repeatedly used as a predominant color. Pattern was used figures such as floral motif, butterfly, bee, and paisley, which are the inspiration of nature, depending on a differentiated concept of season. Geometrical pattern and color blocking were used complexly. Accordingly, this study approached morpho, which is an elaborately natural motif of having been inspired by Alexander McQueen's Sarah Burton Collections, through a Photoshop program with the application of a quadrate pattern development method. Size in a work was produced on quadrate with 30 x 30 cm, 300 dpi. A method of making a work includes rotation and rhythm in motif. A motif in a design work was limited 4 colors using the color arrangement function. As a butterfly, which is a motif, is seen in Sarah Burton's works in the latter part, the butterfly, which was depicted like a flower through the refit of pattern, was developed in comparison with the cyclic life and the natural circulation. As seen in Mondrian's work, the peacefulness in a horizontal line and the vividness in a vertical line were in parallel with the cyclic life and the natural theory of flowing together with time amidst the universal truth and order. Work 1 is Romantic Exoticism. Work 2 is etude of memory. Work 3 is something narrative, something about personal. The resolution in printer was set to be 300 dpi. The textile pattern, which was designed with CYM(K) same as dye, was used in experiment. As a result, it was indicated that the finer density and the higher yarn twist level lead to the higher quality of concentration and sharpness in expressing a color. Even the definiteness in pattern got higher. The concentration got darker in general. Thus, it could be confirmed that purity gets lower due to a transfer to high chroma, middle chroma, and low chroma. It was observed to be printed clearly and uniformly because of being more effective in adsorptive power of the dye in the higher density with the less pill owing to the large yarn twist and the less mow in specimen surface when printing the design of having many lines with DTP. In CIE Lab value, A* value didn't show a great difference in the thickness of Yarn. In consequence of having evaluated the fastness in specimen of Interek company, the rubbing fastness, the fastness to daylight, the color fastness to washing, the fastness to sea water, the color fastness to perspiration were shown to be excellent with 4-5 in all, thereby having been able to know about the environmental performance and the satisfiable & usable continuity in a direct transfer method. A follow-up research seeks what a plan is that can differentiate expressiveness in textile design through experimenting and observing characteristics of the appearance tissue in fabric, along with a research on ink & print specification of affecting output, and a printing method & fabric surface. Also, it is expected to be continued a research on the representation of function and sensitivity available for expressing according to fabric structure and surface characteristic.
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