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우리나라 網巾飾에 對한 硏究

우리나라 網巾飾에 對한 硏究
Other Titles
(A) Study on Korean Man's Head Gear and Its Ornaments
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대학원 의류직물학과
우리나라망건식Korean Man's Head Gear의류직물
이화여자대학교 대학원
This thesis is about "Manggon" that holds down man's top knot hair and its accessaries "kwanja", "pungjam". Manggon was seen first time in the mural of Donwhang kae won chon bo during T'ang period(713-756). The "Tu Aek Ra" manggon shown in this mural would be the origin and begining of maggon's usage. Also the "Sha'' that was placed on top of the hair for decoration purpose is believed to be a former form of "Manggon". From the period of Ming Dynasty, manggon was worn by both noble and commoners and in Korea, manggon became popular from the early Yi Dynasty period until end of the Yi Dynasty. "Mangon" would be worn for the first time during the "adult-becoming" ceremony. Before the short hair cut was enforced, wearing the "kwan" Thus the(head gear) was considered as an important etiguette. head gear was treasured and the manggon which was the most essential piece to cover down the hair before to put on the head gear was regarded as the most important piece. However, since the manggon was tied very tightly around the forehead, manggon caused some sickness. From my private collections of man's head gears and ornaments, 121 items were selected and used for analysis and the followings were found: 1. Kwanja's material and design that were used are all in accordance to the historical recordings. 2. Pungjam was divided into 8 categories according to its shape and a research was made on its unique structural characteristic on each categories.;本 論文은 남자가 상투를 튼 머리를 잘 음접해 두기 위한 머리띠인 網巾과 이에 따르는 頭飾品인 貫子, 風簪에 關하여 考察한 것이다. 먼저 상투(계양)에 대해 살펴보고 다음에 網巾의 기원 및 제작방법 등을 考察하였다. 계양은 쌍계와 風簪에 대해 그 源流 및 형태에 대해 살펴보았다. 網巾은 그 起源을 唐代로 遡及해서 開元天寶(713-756)時 唐敦煌壁畵樂廷壤夫人行香圖家屬 가운데 보이는 “透額羅網巾”을 網巾의 始原形으로 보고 또한 머리를 整頓할겸 아름답게 꾸미기 위해서 머리에 썼던 “이”(一名 “쇄”)가 網巾의 前身이라 생각된다. 그러나 中國에 있어서도 上下 貴賤없이 통용되기는 明 太祖부터이며 우리나라에 있어서도 朝鮮朝에 들어와 盛行되었으며 冠禮를 통하여 비로소 成人으로써 網巾을 쓰도록 했다. 그러나 이마에 강하게 조여매야 하므로 網巾으로 疾病 피해가 또한 極甚했다고 한다. 頭飾品은 121點을 標本遺物로 提定하여 分析資料로 삼았고, 이를 고찰해 본 결과 1) 貫子는材料와 文樣(花, 竹, 리)이 文獻과 거의 一致되었다. 2) 風簪은 갓을 고종시키는 역할을 하는 장식품인데, 形態別 特性에 따라 8種類로 大別하고 各各의 構造特徵을 살펴 보았다.
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