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朝鮮時代의 갑옷과 官隷服 裝飾을 응용한 디자인 연구

朝鮮時代의 갑옷과 官隷服 裝飾을 응용한 디자인 연구
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(A) STUDY ON THE DESIGN OF APPLIED DECORATION : With Special Reference to The Armours and Official Slaves' Costums in Yi Dynasty Period
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산업미술대학원 산업미술학과의상디자인전공
조선시대갑옷관례복 장식디자인
이화여자대학교 산업미술대학원
본 연구는 朝鮮時代의 갑옷과 官隸服의 裝飾을 고찰하고 이것을 應用하여 作品裂作을 하므로써 傳統裝飾의 아름다움과 우수성을 보여주고, 傳統裝飾의 應用과 再創造 및 현대 服飾에의 活用 可能性을 摸索하였다. 먼저 갑옷과 官隸服의 歷史的 背景 및 裝飾의 特性에 관하여 살펴보고, 그 裝飾을 모티브로 하여 作品으로 製作하였다. 硏究範圍는 現存遺物이 많은 朝鮮時代로서, 保存遺物을 중심으로 裝飾의 특성을 硏究하였다. 갑옷과 官隸服의 裝飾을 디자인하는 과정은 裝飾의 素材를 현대 감각적인 素材로 변형하여 裝飾의 形態를 利用하거나, 裝飾의 표현기법을 달리 변화시키거나, 裝飾의 素材와 기법을 전부 변형하여 그 이미지만을 도입하거나, 또는 갑옷과 官隷服의 裝飾을 하나의 디자인에 應用하는등 다각적인 표현을 추구하였다. 作品製作을 통하여 얻은 結果는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 갑옷과 官隸服의 裝飾은 立體形 素材와 全面的構成에 의한 강한 개성을 가짐으로 이것을 현대 衣服에 應用하였을때 서양장식 보다 더 현대적인 감각으로 다양하게 표현 할 수 있다. 둘째, 갑옷과 官隸服 裝飾의 대담한 造形的構成은 이를 創造的 시각으로 재조명했을때 衣服을 造形藝術로 표현할 수 있는 무한한 可熊性을 볼 수 있었다. 셋째, 갑옷의 裝飾을 應用한 作品은 옷의 全面에 걸쳐 裝飾이 되어 있으나 작은 조각으로 연결되어 있으므로 着用시 움직임에 불편함이 없는 機能性을 고려한 것임을 알 수 있다. 넷째, 갑옷과 官隸服의 裝飾을 應用한 作品을 着用하였을때 裝飾이 흔들리면서 動的인 효과를 주었다. 이상으로, 의상디자인에 중요한 모티브가 될 수 있는 傳統裝飾의 全般的인 硏究가 요구되며, 독창적인 개성으로 傳統裝飾의 再創造 및 현대복식에의 活用이 필요하다고 생각된다.;The aim of this thesis was to study the decorations of armours and official slaves' costums in Yi Dayasty period and to make works applied them. The author was willing to show the beauty and excellence of own traditional decorations to the modern fashion that most influenced from western decorations and to try the application, recreation and possibility of practical use of own traditional decorations. The general characteristics of armours and official slaves' costums as follows; First, textures of docoration were various as string, metals, cloisonnes, leathers, fur, embroiderys, sculptures, etc. Second, the express methods of decoration were not composed of plane surface but cubic. Third, decorations were formed not in part of costums but for the most part and made up boldly and densly. fifth, decorations were composed of function and symbol of the social prositions better than to pursue the pure beauty. On the basis of this study, the author tried to express the modern sense by the decorations of pre-examined costums, and by that sense, the author made five actual works and three illustrations. Simplified silhouette and cutting line, black textures used in actual works in order to emphasis of the gay decorations. Clothes were made of denim, wool, yam, and the materials of decorations were composed of leathers, copper, dots, plastics, nylon-taffta, spangles, roopes. The way of application of armour's decoration and the official slaves' are listed below; First, in work Ⅰ·Ⅶ, by using the way of traditional decorations the materials of the decoration are reformed. Second, in work Ⅳ·Ⅴ·Ⅵ·Ⅷ, the way and the shape of traditional decorations are applied with materials like traditional decorations. Third, in work Ⅵ·Ⅷ, the decorations of armours and official slaves' costums are recomposed in a work. Fourth, in work Ⅱ, by changing of materials, way, and shape of traditional decorations the image of the traditional decorations are applied. Illustrations are represented by the water-color, water-based marker, color-pencils, gold-powder and silver-powder on the black colored-paper and textured papers. It is the general conclusions the author got through the actual works and illustrations that decorations of the traditional costums can express more beautifully with modern sense same as western docrations are used in modern fashion. And design that applied to decorations of traditional costums can reforms plentifully by individual sense. So, whole study about traditional decorations can give important motives to the fashion design must be carried.
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