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朝鮮時代 男子 便服冠帽에 관한 考察

朝鮮時代 男子 便服冠帽에 관한 考察
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(A) study on "The ordinary dress-kwans of man"
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대학원 의류직물학과
이화여자대학교 대학원
本 論文은 朝鮮時代 男子의 便服에 쓴 冠帽類인 程子冠 東坡冠 沖正冠 臥龍冠 四方冠 章甫冠에 관해서 中國에서의 使用과 需用이후의 制度 및 변천을 考察한 것이다. 冠이란 머리에 쓰는 것에 對한 通名이지만 俠義로는 平居時에 着用하는 冠物을 말하며 後世의 冠이라고 하면 일반적으로 이 狹義의 것을 일컫는다. 우리나라에서 이 狹義의 冠의 使用은 平居時에도 衣冠文物을 갖추어야 했던 朝鮮朝의 士大夫들 間에 ‘갓’ 着用을 거추장스럽게 여기면서부터 비롯된 것인바, 이는 곧 中國의 여러 冠中에서 하나 둘씩 가져다가 맨상투 위에 갓 대신으로 使用하게 된 것이 그 始作이라고 할 수 있다. 그리하여 이러한 冠들의 着用은 崇儒政策에 依한 儒敎가 政治文化의 思想的인 주류를 이루었던 朝鮮中期 以後 즉 中宗때에 널리 盛行되어 使用되어오다가 國末에 이르러는 斷髮令과 아울러 그 使用度가 줄어들었으며 1940年代에 이르러서는 거의 그 모습을 찾아 볼 수가 없게 되었다. 또한 이들 便服冠帽들은 모두 中國에서 유래되어 진 것이나 程子冠 東坡冠 章甫冠은 需用 定着되어 지는 과정에서 많은 變貌를 보인다. 材料에는 馬尾를 使用한 것이 대부분이며 그밖에 竹絲, 紵 등을 使用한 것도 있었다. 이들 冠帽中에서 가장 後世에 까지 널리 使用되어 진것은 程子冠이다.;This study considers Jung Za Kwan, Dong pa Kwan, Chung-jung Kwan, Wa-ryong Kwan , Sa-bang Kwan, Zang-po Kwan which is the sort of ordinary dress-Kwans of man in the institution and transition since reception and use from china. Kwan is the general description of the kind of hat, in narrow sense, but it is to represent the hat-object putting on the hair at ordinary times and it is called as a Latter sense in these days. In the age of Yi-Dynasty, it's use had began as a hat of the person of high birth who considered the use of a traditional cylindrical Korean hat to be troublesome. Because of this reason, it was originated from chinese Kwans that were brought from China, and it was replaced with a topknot. Since the middle age of Yi-Dynasty in which the society of confucianism had consisted of the ideological main-current in politics and culture, i.e the age of Jung jong and Myung Jong, it had been widely used. At the Last age of Yi-Dynasty, its frequency of use had been decreased with the bobbed hair-command. and it was scarcely used in the decade of 1940. Furthermore, though the ordinary dress-Kwans of man was originated from china, Jung-Za Kwan, Dong-pa Kwan, Zang-po Kwan largely had changed in the process of reception-fixation. In material, they were mostly made of the horse hair, but bamboo-thread and ramie fabric were used occasionly. Among these Kwans, Jung-Za Kwan had been widely used until posterity.
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