중년기여성의 체형에 따른 Tailored collar의 적합성에 관한 연구

Abstract

본 연구의 목적은 中年期 女性의 변화된 體型(屈身體型 및 反身體型)에 적합한 테일러드 칼라를 제작하기 위해 뉘임치수와 칼라 着用形態와의 관계를 구명하는 것이다. 연구대상자는 體型的 특징을 고려하여 中年期 女性 중 正常體型 1명, 屈身體型 및 反身體型 각 3명씩 선정하였고 마틴계측기와 사진촬영법과 각도 측정법으로 體型 특징을 파악 하였다. 자료분석은 체형에 따른 부위별 體表 傾斜角度와 칼라 착용형태와의 관계를 피어슨 적률 상관계수를 구하였고 뉘임치수에 따른 칼라 착용형태의 차이는 변량분석을 통해 유의성을 검증하였고 유의적 차이가 인정된 변인에 한하여 Student-Newman-Keuls법으로 사후 검증하였다. 그 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 屈身體型과 反身體型의 어깨경사 각도는 굴신체형일 수록 전면경부경사각도와 후면경부경사각도가 크고 앞목둘레와 앞진동둘레가 감소된다. 그리고 반신체형일 수록 전면경부경사각도와 후면경부경사각도가 작고 위목둘레와 뒤진동둘레가 증가 된다. 2. 뒤스탠드는 뉘임치수가 2㎝일때 전면흉부하부경사각도가 작을 수록 목에 덜 밀착되고 뉘임치수가 8㎝일때는 전면경부경사각도와 후면경부경사각도가 클 수록 목에서 멀어지고 전면흉부경사각도와 상반신전정중선경사각도가 클 수록 목에 밀착된다. 칼라코너와 어깨선과 수직거리는 전면경부경사각도 및 후면경부경사각도와는 負的 상관 관계가 하복부돌출면하부경사각도와는 正的 상관 관계가 나타났다. 라펠나비의 크기는 뉘임치수가 2㎝일때 후면경부경사각도 및 배면흉부상부경사각도와는 正的인 상관 관계가 전면흉부상부경사각도, 상방신전정중선경사각도 및 하복부돌출면하부경사각도와는 負的 상관 관계가 나타났다. 3. 테일러드 칼라 착용시의 칼라형태 중 뒤스탠드, 어깨스탠드, 칼라둘레, 어깨선위치, 뒤중심위치, 라펠나비의 크기, 겉칼라와 라펠사이의 각의 길이는 뉘임치수에 따라 유의적 차이가 인정 되었다. 위의 결과로 屈身體型은 뉘임치수를 6㎝나 8㎝로 하고 反身體型은 뉘임치수를 2㎝나 4㎝로 할 때 體型에 適合하다.;The object of this study is intended to investigate correlation between laying size and collar wearing figure in order to make a tailored collar suitable for the varied body form of the middle-aged woman (low-bending type and upperstretching half of the body type). By taking the peculiarity of body form into account, a woman with normal body figure and each three women with lower bending half of the body and upper-stretching half of the body type have been selected, and hence such body form‘s peculiarities were obtained through Martin-Measuring instrument, photographic method and angular measuring method. As for a data analysis, the correlation between the angle of inclination for body figure by each part and the collar wearing figure through pearson's coefficient for probability was sought, and the difference of collar figure pursuant to laying size was varified with its significance through variable analysis, and its significant difference was later varified only by the recognized variable factor through Student Newman-Kerfs method. The results are described as follows : 1. It was revelaed that as for the angle of shoulder inclination for low-bending type and upper-stretching type, the more low-bending type tends to be, the bigger a front neck part inclination angle and a rear neck part (cervial region) inclination angle would be, and the girth of a front cervical region and the girth of an armhole (a sleeve) would be reduced. And the more upper-stretching type of a half of the body tends to be, the inclination angle of a front cervical region and the inclination angle of a rear cervical region would be smaller, and the girth of an upper neck and the girth of a rear armhole would get increased. 2. The rear (back) stand was revealed that when the laying size happened to be 2cm., the less the inclination angle of a front breast's lower part tended to be, the less it would be closely adhered to a neck. and when the laying size happened to be 8cm., the larger the inclination angle of a front cervical region and the inclination angle of a rear cervical region, they tended to be far off a neck, while the bigger the inclination angle of a front breast and the inclination angle and the inclination angle of the mid-center of an upper half of the body tended to be, they would get closely adhered to a neck. As for a collar corner, a shoulder line and a vertical line, they were revealed to be negatively correlated with the inclination of a front cervical region and the inclination angle of rear cervical region, while they were revealed to be positively correlated with the inclination angle of a lower abdominal region's salient lower part. As for "lapedl width", when the laying size happened to be 2 cm., it was revealed to be positively correlated with the inclination angle of a rear cervical region and the inclination angle of a rear breast's upper part, while it was also revealed to be negatively correlated with the inclination angle of a front breast's upper part, the inclination angle of the mid center line for upper half of the body and the inclination angle of a lower abdominal salient lower part. 3. Among the collar figures when wearing the tailored collar, the sizes of back stand, shoulder stand, collar girth, the position of shoulder line, the position of rear center, lapel width and the size angle between notch collar (the obverse collar) and lapel have been recognized by its significant difference depending on the laying size. As the above results of the study, it was revealed that the low-bending body form would set the laying size as 6cm., or 8cm., and the upper-stretching half of the body form would be suitable for such a body form when setting the laying size as 2cm., or 4cm.