謁聖圖와 放榜圖에 나타난 儒生服飾

Abstract

本考는 圖繪와 文獻에 나타난 科擧制度와 관련된 儒生服飾을 고찰한 것이다. 朝鮮王朝는 敎育을 중요시 하던 사회였고, 儒生은 及第者와 특수양반계층의 자제로서 사회적으로 우월한 지위에 있었다. 朝鮮時代에는 보고용 기록물로서 圖繪를 남겼는데, 科擧장면은 그려 논 6편의 圖繪資料에는 科擧에 응시하는 儒生들의 服飾과 及第후의 服飾이 뚜렷이 구분되어 나타났다. 응시자인 儒生들은 儒巾이나 幅巾에 靑衿·直領·道袍·경의를 착용하였고 及第者들은 복두에 團領을 착용하였다. 실제 文獻상에 나타난 儒生服들의 服飾이었던 난삼은 圖繪에서는 보이지 않았고 시대에 따라 儒生服은 변화한 것을 알 수 있었다. 服飾史學의 측면에서 지금까지 연구성과의 특이점으로 儒生服은 儒巾에 紅直領과 靑直領을 착용하다가 점점 후대로 올수록 道袍와 경의를 착용하고, 及第者의 服은 복두에 御賜花를 꽂고 黑色의 團領이 나, 綠色의, 紅色의 團領을 착용하다가 후대로 올수록 복두에 綠團領을 착용한 것을 늘 수 있다.;This article inquired into the Confuncian Scholar's and its ornaments (□生服) related to the classical examination system for governments service in Old-time Korea (科學) which was showed in books and picture. Yi dynasty was the society that emphasized the importance of education, and the Confuncian scholar's, (□生) as the son of the special aristocratie class, had a superior position socially. In Yi dynasty, pictures were left as the records for report, igerefore, in six pictures which were drawn the sight of examination, we could know that obvious division in to the dress and its ornaments of Confuncian scholars (□生服) appling for the examination and it after passing. Confuncian scholars, (□生) appliers wore coats trimmed in blue, (靑□) high stiff collars, (直領) long, (道袍) on Confuncian hoodes (□巾) or sashes. (福巾) We could know that robes, Confuncian dresses which were seen really in books were not got on substantially. from which were not showed in pictures, and Confuncian dresses (□生服) were changed in the era. In the early Yi dynasty, they wore high stiff red collars, (紅直領) and high stiff blue collars (靑直領) on the confuncian hoodes, (□巾) the wore time flew to the late, and had on high stiff white collars (白直領) which were short and narrow. In the successful examination dress, the formal black or green and red formal gown (紅團領) were put on winged hat (□頭) in the early Yi dynasty, after that, they were formal green gown (錄團領) with put flower of Royal emissary (御賜花) in the winged hat (□頭) as time flew to the late Yi dynasty. (朝鮮王朝)