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傳統韓服의 線을 應用한 作品硏究

Title
傳統韓服의 線을 應用한 作品硏究
Other Titles
(A) STUDY ON THE WORK APPLIED TO THE TRADITIONAL KOREAN DRESS LINES
Authors
趙熙愛
Issue Date
1983
Department/Major
대학원 장식미술학과
Keywords
전통한복TRADITIONAL KOREAN DRESS장식미술
Publisher
이화여자대학교 대학원
Degree
Master
Advisors
배천범
Abstract
The dresses have been originated and developed centering around the regions, races and nations whose people wear them, and improved along with cultural exchanges among the races and/ or nations. The rapid growth in our economy since 1960's has accelerated the change of our life-style, and the days of ready-made dresses or clothes are settled down together with the growth of our textile industry. Also, with the promotion of international exchanges, the mode of foreign dresses has given a direct affection on our dresses. The purpose of this study is to make thesis on the Korean- type dress style suitable to our life and consciousness in our rapidly changing industrial society and to seek to develop the Korean dress mode to be popularly used in the international community, and especially, to express modernizedly our design by applying the lines or shapes of the traditional Korean dress to the theme of design. In this study, historic background of the dress style of the traditional Korean dresses is reviewed, and explanations are given to the lines which are applied to the work by analyzing and surveying the most characterized traditional Korean dress lines. In making the above-said work, a lot of efforts are concentrated on transmitting Korean image through making 2 pieces of real sample and 8 pieces of illustrations with stress on ordinary dresses. The major traditional Korean dress lines applied to the work are represented by the following: 1. Straight lines : "Ban-jeon-seon" (Git-seon" and "Seop-seon"), "Dong-jeong-seon" 2. Curved lines : "Git-seon" of Dang dynasty, "Bae-rae-seon" 3. Flexible lines : "Beo-seon-seon", "Do-ryeon-seon", "Joo-reom-sero", "Go-reom-seon", Through this study, it is noted that the "Bae-rae-seon" (sleeve sagging lines), the left-right adjusting "Git-seon" (lapel lines), "Do-ryeon-seon" (coat's lower and lines) and skirt lines are the most popular ones among the lines of the Korean dresses. These lines could be found from the skirts and coats (Korean jakects for female wear) which retain the traditional character or features more impressively than other types of dresses. On the other hand, in the course of reviewing the real samples and modernizing the design to make thesis on the Korean-type dress lines some difficulties were confronted with in the effort to harmonize transmission of the Korean-type image with the sense of refined design. However, such difficulties may be the common problems for the designers to be encountered and surmounted. And consequently, it is considered more important to prepare ourselves and to take positive posture in improving the Korean type dres designs and in training qualified designers.;衣服의 發生 및 發展 過程은 地域 ·民族· 國家를 中心으로 形成되며 그 民族 國家間의 文化 交流에 따라 育成된다. 1960年代 以後 우리 經濟의 高度 成長은 生活 樣式의 變化를 加速化 시켰고, 織維 工業의 發展과 함께 旣成服 時代의 기틀이 잡혔으며 國際 交流가 贈進됨에 따라 外國 모드의 影響은 보다 直接的인 것이 되었다. 본 硏究의 目的은 急變하는 産業 社會 속에서 우리 生活과 意式에 맞는 韓國的인 複式의 定立과 國際 社會에 通用될 수 있는 韓國的인 모드의 開發에 두고 있으며, 특히 傳統韓服의 線을 디자인의 테에마로 應用하여 모던한 우리의 디자인을 表現해 보려는데 있다. 硏究過程으로는 傳統 韓服의 服飾史的 背景을 考察해 보고 가장 特徵的인 傳統 韓服의 線을 造形的으로 分析 硏究하였으며 作品에 應用된 線의 特性에 대해 說明하였다. 作品 製作에 있어서는 平常服의 디자인을 中心으로한 8點의 Illustration과 2點의 實物 製作을 통해 韓國的 이미지 傳達에 主力하였다. 이에 引用된 傳統 韓服의 線을 集約해 보면 다음과 같다. 1. 直線 - 반전선(깃과 섶선), 동정선 2. 曲線 - 唐衣 깃선, 배래선, 버선선, 도련선 3. 流動的인 線 - 주름선, 고름선 이상의 硏究를 통해, 傳統 韓服의 集約된 線 중에서 배래선과 左右교임의 깃선, 도련선, 치마선 등이 가장 보편적인 線임을 알 수 있었으며, 이런 線들은 他 形態의 衣服보다 가장 傳統的 性格이 강하게 維持된 치마 저고리에서 찾을 수 있었다. 또한 韓國的인 線의 定立을 위한 實物 考察과 디자인을 “모더나이즈”하는 過程에서, 韓國的인 이미지 傳達과 세련된 디자인 感覺의 倂行上의 問題에 어려운 點이 있었다. 그러나 이는 디자이너들이 겪는 共通的인 問題點일 것이며, 단지 韓國的인 디자인의 開發과 디자이너의 育成에 積極的인 姿勢가 重要하다고 보는 것이다.
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