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(A) Study on the Sacredotal Robe
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대학원 의류직물학과
이화여자대학교 대학원
This is a study on the Sacredotal robe for empresses in China and in Korea. The Sacredotal robe is put on in big ceremonies or events as full court dress. The Chinese Sacredotal robe is classified into six kind; Whee-Eui, Yoo - Chuk, Kwul-Chuk, Kug - Eui, Chun-Eui, Tan-Eui. They were originated from ancient China, They were used in ceremonies as official dresses by Joo people throughout the history. In this paper I examined the changes of sacredotal robe for Joo dynasty till Ming dynasty. Whee-Eui, Yoo - Chuk, Kwal-Chuk were dressed in Sacrified robes, and Kug-Eui, Chun-Eui, Tan-Eui were offical or ordinary dresses. Whee-Eui is red black, Yoo-Chuk is blue, Kwal-Chuk is red, Kug -Eui is yellow, Chun-Eui is white, Tan-Eui is black. Different colour represent different classes, ranks or positions of those who were the clothes. And Whee-Eui, Yoo-Chuk, Kwal-Chuk, in which the patterns of "Jeog" are enbroidered or woven, which mean "pheasant". In the clothes of Empresses, the number of the patterns of Jeog is 12, and as the rank gets higher, the more the number of the patterns get. The Korean sacredotal robe is Jeuk-Eui. The first record about Jeuk-Eui can be tarce back to the period of king Gong Min in the Koryo Dynasty, and it is believed to be introduced into Korea from China. The Sacredotal robe had been granted to Cho-Sun Dynasty from Ming Dynasty from the third year of king Tai-Jo to the third year of king In-Jo. when Cheong Dynasty succecded Ming Dynasty, Cho-Sun adopted the Jeuk-Eui system which was based on the dress system of Ming Dynasty. As time passes, this sacredotal robe system, which was different from that of Ming Dynasty, was adopted and converted into our national way of clothes later. Such robe system was established at the period of young Jo and was kept to the end of Cho-Sun. The designated colour for the Empress was red, and deep blue for the consort of the Crown prince under Jeuk Eui System. The back length of Jeuk-Eui was longer than front by 28㎝, and the front openning was straight down and could not be overlapped. The emblems on Jeuk-Eui, which is called "Jeog", was the one similar to the Chinese Phoenic and the number for empress is 51 while that of the consort of the Crown prince is 36. My study on the sacerdotal robe is based on my personal examination about sacredotal robe for empresses in China China and Korea.;본 연구는 中國과 우리나라의 王妃法服에 관한 연구로, 中國의 褘衣, 유적, 闕翟, 鞠衣, 展衣, 祿衣와 우리나라의 翟衣에 관해 고찰하였다. 中國法服은 여섯 가지로, 각기 다른 用度에 사용되었다. 褘衣, 유적, 闕翟은 翟文이 있는 옷으로, 三翟이라 하고, 祭服으로 사용하였다. 鞠衣, 展衣, 祿衣는 文飾이 없고, 三衣라 하였고, 公, 常服으로 사용하였다. 六服의 色은 褘衣는 玄色으로 하고, 그 외에는 음양 5행설을 기초로 한 靑·赤·黃·白·黑의 순으로 衣色을 정하였다. 또 계급에 따라 착용할 수 있는 옷의 종류도 달라, 六服은 그 자체로 계급차를 나타내었다. 翟文이 있는 三翟에는 雉文을 다른 비단에 刻하여 그것을 옷에 붙였다. 雉文은 命數에 따라 그 數에 차등을 두어, 皇后는 12개를 달았고, 그 외의 命婦는 계급이 낮아짐에 따라 그 數가 줄었다. 六服의 형태는 袍形으로, 隋代에는 內單이라 하였다. 裏衣는 바로 지금의 中單이다. 周代에 확립된 法服은 明代까지 큰 변화없이 유지되었다. 우리나라의 法服은, 고려 공민왕때 明에서 처음 받아 들였다. 조선에서도 임진왜란까지 明에서 14회에 걸쳐 사여 받았다. 이를 바탕으로 世宗代에 처음으로 法服을 제작하였다. 이후 英祖代에 이르러서 國俗化된 法服制가 확립되었다. 그 특징은 뒷길이가 앞길이보다 1尺 긴, 앞이 背子와 같이 서로 맞닿아 여며지지 않았다. 王妃의 法服은 大紅色 翟衣에 圓翟文을 51개 달았고, 世子嬪은 鴉靑色에 36개의 圓翟文을 달았다. 또한 補가 있어, 王妃는 五瓜龍補, 世子嬪은 四瓜龍補를 하였다. 國末 高宗이 皇帝位에 오르면서, 大明會典을 근거로, 深靑色 翟衣를 제작하였으며, 明과는 달리 하피와 補가 첨가 되었다.
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