補와 胸背에 나타난 紋樣의 造型 分析

Abstract

衣生活의 裝飾技法으로 나타난 刺繡는 時代의 흐름에 따라 수많은 形態로 變貌해왔다. 우리나라의 刺繡中 朝鮮時代의 것은 民族固有의 멋이 가장 뛰어났다고 할수 있는데 많은 刺繡品中에서 官服에 階級의 表示를 하기위해 繡놓아서 가슴과 등, 어깨에 달아졌던 補와 胸背는 비록 크기가 限定된 좁은 空間이지만 많은 뜻을 지니고 있음을 알 수 있다. 여기에 使用된 紋樣들은 全體的으로 韓國의 紋樣을 硏究할 때 매우 큰 몫을 차지하고 있다. 紋樣의 由來는 거의다 비슷하지만 이것 역시 自然現象에 根據를 두고 動物이나 植物의 形態를 다루었으며 그밖의 幾何學的紋樣들도 함께 使用해왔다. 그중에서 實在的인 것을 다루기도 하였으며 假想的인 動, 植物紋樣을 가운데 위치하고 背景에는 많은 구름들과 여러 長生紋樣들이 자리를 잡고 있다. 補는 王이나 王世子등이 使用하였던 것으로 둥근 形態의 헝겊에 繡놓아서 가슴, 등, 양어깨에 附着시켰으며, 胸背는 王妃, 公主, 文官, 武官들이 달던 것으로 네모진 헝겊에 繡놓아서 가슴과 등에 附着시켰었다. 제일 처음 施行한 것은 朝鮮時代의 世宗 26年(1444年)이었으며, 처음에는 中國의 制度를 模倣하였으나 점차적으로 韓國化되어 나갔으며 後代로 갈수록 單純化되었음을 볼 수 있다. 이 論文에서는 이것들의 起原과 變遷에 대해 다루었고 유품과 고문헌등을 參考로 해서 紋樣을 形態別, 時代別로 分類해서 그 造形性을 分析하여 보았고 이에 使用되는 材料와 刺繡手法, 配色에 대한 調査를 그림과 圖表로 整理해 보았다. 王은 龍紋樣만을 使用하였고, 王妃와 公主는 주로 鳳凰紋樣을, 大君은 想像의 動物인 麒麟을, 王子는 白澤을, 大司憲은 ○○紋樣을 使用하였다. 文官은 孔省, 雲鳳, 鶴등을 使用하였고 武官은 虎豹, 熊 紋樣을 使用하였다. 金絲, 銀絲, 色絲들을 利用해 繡놓았고, 色은 原色에 가까운 중간色調들로 處理되어 華麗하면서도 은근함을 느끼게 해준다. 실과 바늘로 헝겊에 表現한 섬세한 繡工藝品이며 만든이의 才能에 대해 認識함도 重要하지만 時代的, 社會的인 面을 바탕으로 해서 나타나는 紋樣들은 그들이 所望했던 것이 무엇인가과 그들의 美의식을 살필 수 있었으며 우리나라의 傳統的 文野에 큰 영향을 주었을 것이고 現代에 이르기까지 變貌해가면서 우리에게 전해지고 있는 것이다. 이런 귀한 資料들이 盲目的 樣式 답습이 아닌 變化된 오늘날의 生活가운데서 持續的인 美의 世界를 구축해 나가고 韓國의 傳統紋樣이 바로 傳乘되어 잘 應用되는데 도움이 되고져 하였다.;In many a change has been occurred time after time ever since the appearance of its embroidery has generated certainly as itself decorative technics upon the dressing-live. Among the most significant touches seem to appeared during the Chosun age (which begin in 1392) in our nation and such a fineness of embroideries which were the traditionally interested and the magnificent taste much more easily accessible by the age of the officialdom's uniforms; rather its with the differential ranking officials even if the format and the beauty of formative artistical embroideries hung up around their back to breasts with what that of smaller space by them were occupied, however these meaningful to us. Once who could have the closely examination to thinking over its availabilities of these patterns which in there are a great concernment of our precious treasury ever provided from our ancient age of civilization. Its seem to very much similarity to one another but them were obviously made of the groundness by a natural of the phenomenal; so as took the shapes from animals, or with the many of vegetation along with the geometrical axiom had involved freely. Some of them were in a substantial figures, but some of them were non-existence shapes either ef animal, or vegetation treated. However, the rain of the animal which were surrounded with many of clouds and a longevity creatures. That format which available by King, or by the Crown Prince, were embroidered in a round shapes on a piece of cloth stuff and it adheres to breasts, backs, and their shoulders, and these thoraces adheres to breasts and backs of the gueen, princess, civil servants, and military officers made of the embroideries by a quared piece of a cloth stuff. Its were fashioned originally ever since of the Chosun Age in 1144; the King Sejong of 26th ruling years, nevertheless, which were imitated from the ancient Chinese system and had become of a Koreanization gradually time goes by and the latter on its has the patterns more simplified. With this thesis, to fount out of the original discovering and patterns of transitions through such bequests rarely where placed and referred to the competent bibliographies for its analyzing in them the beauty of artistical formativeness in a categorical figures, also a periodical patterns of studies, however, of the results here with brings the availability of the stuffs; method of embroideries, and the colorations of all them which are contracted some of drawings as well to the pictorial state. The King, entirely appropriates of the dragon pattern, and Princess, or Queen were used to wear the phoenix pattern dresses, for the Prince held rather imaginable animals, for example, of a giraffe shapes; and for the royal for a practical sensing of the animal of dragon-like (Baektaek, in Korean pronounciation), and for the honorguards which were available on the pattern of unicorn-Lion. Civil servants with peacock pattern, or wild goose, and stork, but the military officers had worn of the pattern of tiger or bear. During upon the embroidery with uniforms, those coloration detailed was made up by golden thread, or silver thread and such a fineness of works which was almost its natural colors through their highly developed technics, and seem to much gorgeousness and are very graceful touches along with the particular earnestness. There were easily recognized of their talented in the craftsmanship at a glance to take its subtle finishes upon the embroidery which woven them in pieces of the cloth piece, respectively, and furthermore we even today could appreciate what of their wished and backing up the splendiferous of their age's political situations and the socially beheld a high civilization. Of course, there were vivid of the estheticism being existed on them, and such valuable arts of our traditional treasure given much of influence our nation's up-to-date ideal variably in every sector, however, changes mary even now. With ever-lastingly shining of the treasury, wet somehow, usefully to managed them more properly not just getting into imitativeness performance but be better to appiad for our own good and its kept firmly age to age for our descendants and certainy to beautified to more like its what used tn through everybody's endless exertions.