Collar와 어깨傾斜度에 關한 硏究

Abstract

Collar 製作時 똑같은 pattern을 사용하여 製作한다 하여도 그 形態나 느낌은 着用者의 體型, 옷감의 種類등에 의하여 다르게 나타나므로 제작자가 목적하는 바의 Collar를 製作하기 위해서는 그 製圖原理, 특징, Collar 形態에 變化를 주는 要素등을 알아 둘 필요가 있다. 본 연구에서는 Collar의 基本型 中의 하나이며 일반적으로 사용되고 있는 Peter Pan Collar와 Tailored Collar를 실험대상으로 선정하였다. 實驗內用은 다음과 같다. 1. Peter pan Collar를 4가지 製圖方法으로 比較分析. 2. Peter pan Collar의 어깨경사도에 따른 변화와 値數關係檢討. 3. Tailored Collar의 製圖硏究. 4. Tailored Collar를 어깨경사와 제도시의 뉘핌분을 다르게 할 때의 뒷고대높이와 뒷칼라둘레를 測定分析 5. Tailored Collar를 어깨경사와 직물의 두께를 다르게하여 製作하였을 때의 뒷고대높이와 뒷칼라둘레를 測定分析 위의 실험의 結果에서 어깨傾斜, 제도시의 뉘핌분, 옷감의 두께등의 3尿素는 Collar형태에 있어 큰 영향을 미치는 것임을 알 수 있다. 實驗結果는 다음과 같다. 1. 4種의 Peter pan Collar 製圖法중 3種은 거의 비슷한 형태이나 製圖法[D]에서는 앞의 목선부분이 다른 3種類에 비해 직선형태로 나타났다. 2. 같은 형태와 같은 뒷고대높이의 Collar를 製圖하려 할 때 어깨傾斜度가 클수록 목둘레패임선의 낮아야 하며 뉘핌分量이 적어야 한다. 3. Tailored Collar에서 어깨傾斜度가 작고 製圖時 뉘핌분이 적고 감이 두꺼울 때에 뒷고대가 서는 높은 Collar가 되며 어깨傾斜度가 크고 製圖時 뉘핌分이 많고 얇은 감일 때에 뒷고대가 낮은 눕는 형태의 Collar가 된다. 4. Tailored Collar에서 어깨傾斜度가 작을 때, 製圖時의 뉘핌分이 적을 때, 재료가 두꺼운 것 일 때에 뒷깃둘레가 작고 어깨傾斜度가 클 때, 製圖時의 뉘핌分이 많을 때, 재료가 얇은것일 때에 뒷깃둘레가 커진다.;Even if we use the same pattern to make collars, their appearances or the feeling they give are variable according to the bodily type of wearers or the kind of fabrics. So if we want to make the collar that fits our intention, it is necessary to have knowledge of its drafting principle, specific features of each drafting methods and the factors that changes its form, etc. In this study, the author chose peter pan collar and tailored collar which are among the basic patterns of collar and are generally used as the subject of study. The contents of the study were as follows. 1. The comparative analysis of peter pan collars made in 4 different methods of pattern mating. 2. The examination of the relation between shoulder inclination and the appearance of peter pan collar. 3. Study on pattern mating of tailored collar. 4. The measurements of the height of back stand and the back girth of tailored collar depending on the changes in the shoulder inclination and in inclination of back collar stand in pattern making. 5. The measurements of the height of back stand and the back girth of tailored collar depending on shoulder inclination and thickness of fabrics. In the above study, it was realized that three factors of shoulder inclination, methods of pattern mating and thickness of fabrics have strong influence on the appearance of collar. The main results were as follows. 1. Of four methods of pattern making of peter pan collar, three of them make almost the same appearance, but in the method[D], neckline appeared in straight line compared with other three cases. 2. In pattern making of peter pan collar with the same height of stand, as shoulder inclination increases, the distance of the front outline edges must to shorter and inclination of back collar stand must decrease. 3. In making tailored collar, as shoulder inclination decreases, as inclination of back collar stand decreases and as the fabric is thicker, it makes high stand collar, and as shoulder inclination increases, as inclination of tack collar stand increases and as the fabric is thinner, it makes low stand collar. 4. In making tailored collar, as shoulder inclination decreases, as inclination of back collar stand decreases and as the fabric is thicker, back girth of the collar decreases and as shoulder inclination increases, as inclination of back collar stand increases and as the fabric is thinner, back girth of collar increases.