朝鮮時代의 傳統染色法 硏究

Abstract

Traditional colors of our country are not found except for few relics of cloth. Because traditional dyeing was gradually declined when the synthetic dyes began to appear in our market in the early 20th. century. In this thesis to find superiority of traditional dyeing and traditional colors of our country, I am going to study about dyes and dyeing methods used in Cho-Sun dynasty by experiment faithful to KYU HAP CHONG SUE. The literature which published in 18th century when the practical science flourished remarkably was series of domestic technology. And so many kinds of dyeing methods of Cho-Sun dynasty were written substantially. According to KYU HAP AHONG SUE, many plants such as Safflower, Sappan, Japanese-touchwood, Phellodendron amurense, Sophorajaponica, Coptis, Turmic, Pot-marigold, Indigo-plants, Dahurian-buckthorn, Dayflower and Mulberry-tree, were used to dye. To dye more clearly and more quickly many mordants such as ashes, alums, fruit of the maximowicza chinesis, acetic acid and ice were used in some process of dyeing. Most dye plants are good for the health because they are also used for herb remedies. And most dye plants presents natural and profound colors because they contain complex colouring matters, Especially Safflower, Sappan, Japanese-touchwood, Sophora-Japonica, Indigo-plants, Dahurian-buckthorn present various colors according to mordants and dyeing methods. But some of them demend difficult handling and take many times to complete its process. It thus appears that natural coloring by plants have many superiority but it have some difficulty to revive traditional colors. In order to find traditional colors and to develop them, I propose two stages. The first stage is to explore native dye plants and encourage their cultivation. The second stage is to develop the dyeing method scientifically. And so we should make the traditional dyeing prosper by using it in the field of the traditional clothes and folk crafts.;우리의 先根들이 使用하였던 植物榮料에 의한 伝統染色法은 20세기 初期에 合成染料가 도입된 이후부터 점차로 衰退하였기 때문에, 우리의 아름다운 伝統色은 少数의 染織適物 이외에는 전혀 알 수 없는 실정이다. 이에 本 論文에서는 伝統染色의 우수성을 알아보며 우리의 伝統色을 다시 찾기 위하여, 実学이 활발히 전개되던 朝鮮 中期에 쓰여진 家庭実学志이며 또한 그 時代의 染色法이 가장 풍부하게 記錄되어 있는 「閨閣叢書」를 中心으로 朝鮮時代의 染料 및 染色法에 관하여 実驗 硏究하였다. 「閨閣叢書」에서는 紅花, 蘇木, 紫草, 黃蘖, 槐花, 黃連, 蠻金, 金銭花, 香壽, 蓼藍, 葛梅, 鷄膓草, 桑木 등의 植物染料를 使用하였으며 染料만으로 着色이 잘 안되는 것은 染着度를 높이고 発色이 잘되도록 灰,明礬, 五味子, 醋酸, 얼음 등을 助剤로 使用하였다. 이와같은 植物染 대부분이 漠藥材이므로 公害隨伴보다는 오히려 人沐에 利롭고, 複合成分의 包素를 含有하므로 깊이있고 자연스러운 色으로 表現되었다. 특히 紅花, 蘇木, 紫草, 槐花, 藍, 葛梅와 같은 染料는 媒染材와 染色法의 変化에 따라 多樣한 色으로 染色할 수 있었다. 그러나 紅花, 紫草, 草連, 香薷, 桑木 등의 染料는 染着度가 낮아 染色工程이複雜하며 많은 染色時間을 要하였고 紅花, 紫草, 裡花, 藍, 藥 등의 染料는 그 産地 採取時期 및 保管狀態에 따라 発色이 일정하지 않았다. 이와같이 植物染色은 여러 가지 우수성을 갖고있는 반면에 그에 의하여 伝統色을 再現하는데는 어려운 점도 있었다. 이러한 우리의 아름다운 伝統色을 다시 찾아 継承 発展시키기 위하여는 좋은 染料植物을 많이 栽培하며, 科学的 方法으로 補完된 染色法이 要求된다. 그리하여 伝統榮色을 國有衣裳이나 民俗工芸品에 利用하여 우리의 훌륭한 文化를 이어나가야 할 것이다.