오배자 매염에 의한 마섬유 직물의 꼭두서니염색에 관한 연구

Abstract

마섬유는 가볍고 통기성, 흡습성, 투습성이 좋고 건조가 빠른 시원한 옷감으로 여름철 옷감으로서 매우 큰 인기를 얻고 있다. 또한 뻣뻣하며 몸에 감기지 않고 촉감이 깔깔하여 시원한 느낌을 주며 다른 직물에 비해 강직하고 표면이 거칠어 아름다움을 추구하는 심미적인 욕구에도 잘 맞아 한국인의 정서에 좋은 옷감으로 자리 잡고 있다. 21세기의 소비자 감성이 고감도로 바뀌고 민감해 지면서 의류제품의 선택 시 좀 더 차별화된 감성표현의 욕구가 커지고 디자인뿐만 아니라 직물의 촉감을 포함한 태 평가의 비중이 크게 대두되고 있다. 또한 최근 자연주의가 패션에서 부상하고 기능성과 편안함, 실용성을 추구하는 경향으로 변화하며, 인체친화성이 우수하고 환경친화적인 천연섬유와 천연염료에 의한 의류소재의 색상발현에 관심이 고조되고 있다. 그러므로 본 연구에서는 우리나라에서 흔히 쓰이는 적색계통의 천연염료인 꼭두서니를 천연매염제인 오배자로 매염 후 염색하여 꼭두서니 염색에 의한 ∆E값을 비교하여 리넨, 모시, 삼베, 면/폴리에스테르/리넨교직물의 색 차이를 확인하고 직물의 태를 결정짓는 요인들의 객관적 측정 즉 KES(Kawabata Evaluation System)으로 역학적 성능과 표면 특성의 물리적인 기능을 확인하고 직물시료의 화상을 획득한 후 각 시료의 화상에 대해 각 시료의 표면을 3차원적으로 표현하고, 기본값과 평균값을 구하여 CV(%)을 계산 후 직물시료의 염색 균일성을 객관적인 방법으로 살펴보았다. 또한 주관적으로 평가 가능한 심미성과 선호도를 비교하여 여름용 블라우스로써의 가치를 알아보고 마계통의 직물간의 조화로운 활용에 도움이 되고자 함에 목적이 있다.;The hemp fiber, the fiber obtained mostly from the skin of plant stems, is known to have been developed and used as a material for clothing earlier than any other fiber since humans started to wear clothing. The type of hemp fibers used for clothing as of today includes linen, ramie, and hemp although it is ramie fabric that has been used for clothing for thousands of years in Korea as well as East Asian countries. The hemp fiber features light weight, air permeability, hygroscopicity, moisture absorption and quick dryness, which has made it popular as a fiber material for summer clothing. In addition, it is pretty stiff and does not roll over inside the body while its texture is rough a little with cool feeling. It has gain a lot of popularity among Koreans as it is rigid with coarse surface, compared to other materials, which suits the aesthetic desire and sentiment of Koreans. With consumer sentiment getting more and more sophisticated in the 21st century, there has been an increasing desire for expression of more differentiated sentiments in selecting clothing products with much weight imposed on the evaluation of fabric hand including texture and feel of clothing materials. In addition, as people seek functionality, comfort and practicability with naturalism emerging as a new trend in fashion industry, much attention is being paid to revelation of color in fabrics with properties of environment-friendly fibers, natural colors and superior human-affinity. Therefore, the primary purpose of this study is to identify difference in colors of linen, ramie, hemp, cotton/polyester/linen union fabric, by having Rubia akane Nakai, a reddish natural dye commonly used in Korea, treated with a mordant using Gallnut through natural dying process, and to compare and analyze not only mechanical performance and physical function of surface characteristics through objective evaluation of factors that determine the fabric hand but also aesthetics and preference based on subjective evaluation in a bid to help implement harmonious utilization of hemp-type fabrics. The study has revealed that the Gallnut mordant - alum mordant treatment on hemp dyed with Rubia akane Nakai has turned out to be more effective than on the same Rubia akane Nakai dyed fabric with non mordant treatment as the ?E value of the former is greater than that of the latter. Hemp with non mordant treatment and with Gallnut mordant - alum mordant treatment measuring the values of of hemp dyed with Rubia akane Nakai has revealed that the value of has increased and the value of has decreased, changing the hue towards more reddish and less yellowish as dying is conducted repeatedly. In addition, hemp with non mordant treatment and with Gallnut mordant - alum mordant treatment the K/S value of hemp dyed with Rubia akane Nakai has turned out to increase compared to that of the hemp without mordant treatment. It is estimated that this result is attributed to that fact that the hemp contains 68% more cellulose than other fabrics with higher ratio of non-cellulose such as pentosan and lignin as well, which differentiates the degree of crystallinity and orientation. On the other hand, cotton/polyester/linen union fabric have shown the lowest K/S value due to high crystallinity and limited dyeing site. When it comes to the CV(%) value of specimen fabric, 14lea linen has shown the largest degree of irregularity, followed by hemp, ramie, spun ramie, 40lea linen, cotton/polyester/linen union fabric. According to the result of evaluation of mechanical properties based on KES(Kawabata Evaluation system), the spun ramie has shown to have more tension strength, meaning more flexibility, than ramie while hemp is not as easily contracted as other specimens and features a voluminous sense. In addition, the most optimal specimens in terms of the T.H.V based on KES(Kawabata Evaluation system) are cotton/polyester/linen union fabric while hemp has turned out to be an undesirable specimen. However, this evaluation has been conducted based on KES(Kawabata Evaluation system) and is expected to be different from the evaluation based on the sense of coolness obtained from the hemp, a typical summer fabric in Korea, which necessitates follow-up research on our own evaluation system for hemp materials, particularly, with moisture property as one of the most critical factors to determine the sense of coolness of hemp into consideration. I have conducted a survey of females in their 20s~30s who have major in fashion industry with 11 questions based on a series of selected bipolar adjectives regarding sensitivity preference of six specimens. The answer to the question No.8 ?Stiff ? Pliable? and of the question No.10 ?Vivid ? Mild? has shown the similar result to that of objective evaluation while on the other hand the answer to the question No.11 ?Natural ? Artificial? has shown the statistical average of 3.5 or so, indicating that the respondents have not given a distinct opinion on it. 35 respondents picked spun ramie as the most favored specimen to the question of ?which specimen is your favorite??, followed by cotton/polyester/linen union fabric, 40lea linen while 14lea linen and hemp turned out to be least favored.