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견사 교직물의 홍화 염색과 화상분석 및 태 평가에 대한 연구

견사 교직물의 홍화 염색과 화상분석 및 태 평가에 대한 연구
Other Titles
Dyeing characteristic study of silk union fabric with safflower Image and analysis of image hand value
Issue Date
대학원 의류학과
이화여자대학교 대학원
최근 전 세계적인 추세로 웰빙이라는 삶의 방식을 추구하는 사람들이 많아지면서 의류제품에서도 친환경제품이 많이 출시되고 있고, 친환경 의류에 제품에 대한 관심이 높아지고 있다. 이런 상황에서 소비자들은 단순히 가격에 따른 소비가 아니라 가치를 소비하는 흐름이 강해지면서 패션 기업은 다양한 친환경 의류들을 내놓고 있다. 친환경 의류의 소비는 유럽, 미국 등에선 상당히 보편화되어 있다는 게 전문가들의 소견이다. 한 때 천연섬유는 합성섬유의 등장으로 소비자들로부터 외면되었던 때도 있었지만 최근 이런 경향에 따라 천연 섬유가 다시 각광 받고 있다. 인공염료의 보편화와 더불어 거의 자취를 감추었던 천연염색은 환경보존의 중요성이 강조되고 자연친화적 제품에 대한 관심이 증가됨에 따라 재조명이 이루어지고 있다. 그러나 천연염색은 금속매염제의 사용으로 인한 환경오염이라는 문제를 안고 있다. 금속매염제를 사용한 폐수로 인해 천연염색이 과연 친환경적인가라는 문제로 인해 천연염색에 대한 논란이 있기도 했다. 천연염색 중 홍화는 매염을 하지 않고도 염색이 잘된다. 황색소는 단백질계 섬유에 염착되며, 홍색소는 단백질계 섬유와 셀룰로오스 섬유에 모두 염색이 잘된다. 단백질계 섬유와 셀룰로오스계 섬유의 교직물을 이용해 홍화의 홍색소를 염색하면 좀 더 다양한 색채를 얻을 수 있을 것이다. 단백질계 섬유와 셀룰로오스계 섬유의 교직물은 각각의 단점을 보완해 줄 것이다. 셀룰로오스계 섬유는 구김이 나쁜 단점이 있으나 견사와의 교직을 함으로써 좀 더 좋은 드레이프성과 부드러운 촉감을 가지고 복합적인 특성을 가지는 우수한 의류소재가 될 것이다. 색상면에서도 교직물은 복합색의 발현에 의해 새로운 감성을 추구할 수 있을 것으로 생각되어 천연염료에 의한 염색을 시도하였다. 이러한 교직물들의 태에 대한 연구는 아직까지 이루어지지 않고 있어 교직물들의 태를 평가해보고 여름용 블라우스로써의 가치를 알아보고 교직물에 대한 홍화의 염색성을 알아보고자 한다.;Safflower(Carthamus tinctorius L.) belongs to aseraceae and an annual plant. Plants have globual flower heads. Brilliant yellow, orange or red flowres commonly boom in July. Dried flowers of safflower are used as a natural textile dyestuff. These natural dyes derived from plants are getting more important due to current fashion trends such as naturalism and health and environmental concerns. Safflower has water-soluble yellow dye component and red dye component which is extracted in alkaline bath. Red dye is called carthamin, which is benzoquinone-based, and yellow dye safflower yellow. By using safflower for textile dyeing, yellow dyeing is possible, however, red dyeing is prevalently practiced. Yellow dyeing is possible usually for animal fibers such as silk and wool, while red dyeing is possible for all hydrophilic natural fibers such as cotton, linen, wool, silk, etc. When we try to dye textiles with red dye, if we do not remove yellow dye component as much as possible, resulting dye shade will be shifted toward orange color. In order to obtain red dye, a complicated process is needed. The yellow component must be removed under pH4, and red component is extracted under pH 10.5, and subsequent dyeing should be carried under acidic conditions, thereby pure red color dyeing is possible. when dyeing with red dye component, the dyed shades of silk, an animal fiber, and the shades of cotton, linen, and paper mulberry, cellulosic fibers, are different. Silk is dyed as orange shade, while cellulosic fibers are dyed as reddish shade. The natural dyeing, which had become almost extinct with the advent of synthetic dyestuffs, is gaining its importance and momentum for the environmental preservation issues with 'green' organic products becoming prevalent. Under this circumstance, it is important to study the behavior of safflower without using mordants. In this study, proper extraction conditions of the red dye from safflower, adequate dyeing conditions were sought for dyeing union fabrics. Further, color effect and decorative effect due to the differences in fiber materials were investigated along with the experiments in handle of the union fabrics. In this study, the dyeing properties of union fabrics of silk and cellulosic yarns were investigated. Even without mordants, dyeing of cellulosic fibers or silk fibers using safflower as a natural dyeing material is possible. Appropriate extraction conditions and dyeing conditions were investigated for the dyeing of the union fabric specimens, comprising silk and other fiber such as cotton, linen, ramie, and 'Hanji'. Due to the different absorption characteristics of the silk and cellulosic yarns toward the safflower's dyestuff components, different color values were obtained under the observation direction of the union fabric specimens. Color characteristics of the dyed union fabric specimens were analyzed using colorimeters. Image analysis system/software under specific illumination condition mel also adopfed for the precise analysis. Since the physical properties of the silk and cellulosic yarns are different, the resulting hand of the union fabric become unique in stiffness, springiness, smoothness, etc. This result were due to the anisotropic nature of the specimens. The hand of the union fabrics for the usage of summer blouse material was evaluated using a fabric objective measurement system, KES(Kawabata Evaluation System). The union fabric specimens dyed using safflower exhibited compounded nature in terms of the hand of fabric and the color. Since the warp and filling yarns are of different fiber materials, when the observing directions are changed, the color of the dyed union fabric changed accordingly. This would add some unexpected beauty and sensibility attributable to the directional color change, dependent on the observation position, of the dyed fabrics.
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