색동에 對한 硏究

Abstract

It is current situation that the study on our Korean clothes had been done frequently, but, the study on "Saekdong (stripes of many color)" which was used our traditional Korean clothes, has not been made so often. Considering such facts, the aim of this my study is to examine detailed matters on "Saekdong", including use and meaning, colors, origin of Saekdong and arrangement of colors which had been used for our Korean clothes. In this study, I generalized matters concerned, mainly based on reference bibliography, and collected every photographson it to analyze. Thus, I have done my best to divide relationship of colors by kinds of clothes into two group of "Sangsaeng(compatibility)" and "Sangkeuk(incompatibility)", based on the principle of "The Five Element of the Negative and Positive(or Male and Female)" to compare such elements one another. A. "Saekdong" had been-used for "Doljeokori(children's jacket in their first birthday anniversity)", Kkachidurum,agi (children's many-colored jacket on New Year's Eve)" and "Magoja(Men's outer coat over their coat)", etc. In addition, "Saekdong" had been used for other kinds of costumes, such as "Wcrsam(Korean womens of ceremony-dress attire in older days)", "Hwaeui(prin-cess of ceremony-dress)", over coat for sexagennarian, "Mubok(Female shaman's clothes)", "Kalle (children's cap made of five colors)" and "Obangnang-ja(Five colored small bag)." B. Colors used for "Saekdong" were arranged mainly based on "Sangsaeng(compatibility) by "the Principle ;of_Five Element. of the Negative and Positive(or Male & Female)". (1) Colors of "Five Element" include red, white, black, blue and yellow. (2) Colors used for "Saekdong jacket" were seven colorsred, yellow, blue, white, pink, green and red purple, etc. Among them blue, red, yellow, white, pink and green were used in general. And colors used for "Saekdong jakeck" are arrenged with "compatibility" of 55.8% and "incompatibility." of 44.2%, showing "Sangsaeng" mostly. (3) "Saekdong" of Wonsam(Korean womans of ceremonydress) centered in colors-red, yellow, white. In addition one or two colors of blue, green, pink, red purple were used to "Saekdong" were arranged with showing much compatibility than incompatibility mostly. (4) "Saekdong" of whalots(prin-cess of ceremony-dress) commonly were used for colors-red, yellow, white, blue. Generally arrangement of color consisted by "Sangsaeng", but there were exception of "Sangkeuk". (5) Colors for other "Saekdong" centered in yellow, red, white and blue, one or two colors of pink, red purple, green added it. Arrangement of colors were revealed "Sangsang" mostly. (6) Colors for "Saekdong" in "Wonsam", "Hwaeui" and others which were found through this my general examination for this study, centered in yellow, red, white and blue one or two colors of pink, red purple, green added it. And arrangement of colors were revealed "Sangsaeng" rather than Sangkeuk mostly. Considering the above facts, "Saekdongs" used for our Korean clothes consist of "Sangsaeng(compatibility)" mainly. However, unexpectedly, I could find even many "Sangkeuk(incompatibility), which may be attributed to considering visual feelings. Accordingly, it is considered that "Saekdong" is arranged mainly based on "Sangsaeng "(compatibility)", but, sometimes, "Saekdong does not follow such compatibility partially. It is highly desirable that we had better consider "Saekdong" being used currently in visual color sense, and find out the "Saekdong" which will be able to meet even requirements of "Principle of Five Element of the Negative and Positive(or Male & Female).;우리나라 韓服에 對한 硏究는 많이 行하여 졌으나 韓服에 使用된 색동에 對한 硏究는 別로 이루어져 있지 않으므로 색동의 用度와 意味, 색동에 使用된 色, 색동의 配列關係등 여러 가지 색동에 對한 內容을 알아보고자 硏究를 試圖하였다. 硏究는 參考文獻을 爲主로 하여 內容을 綜合하였으며 寫眞을 蒐集 分析하여 옷의 種類別로 보인 色關係를 陰陽五行說의 原理를 바탕으로 相生과 相克으로 나누어 比較하였다. A. 색동은 男女 아기들의 돐저고리 까치두루마기 마고자등에 使用되었으며 그 外에 圓衫 華衣 회갑인의 두루마기 巫服 굴레 五方낭자 小巫服 같은 것에도 使用되었다. B. 색동에 使用된 色의 配列은 陰陽五行說에 의한 相生을 주로 하여 羅列되었다. (1) 五行色은 赤, 白, 黑, 靑, 黃色이다. (2) 색동저고리에 使用된 色은 빨강, 노랑, 흰색, 청색, 분홍, 초록, 자주등 7가지 色이었으며 그중 노랑, 빨강, 흰색, 청색, 분홍, 초록은 색동마다 共通으로 쓰였고 色配列은 55.8%의 相生과 44.2%의 相克을 보였다. (3) 圓衫의 색동은 빨강, 노랑, 흰색을 中心으로 청색, 분홍, 초록, 자주가 한두 가지씩 加減되었고 色配列은 대체로 相生을 많이 나타냈다. (4) 활옷(華衣)의 색동은 빨강, 노랑, 흰색, 청색이 共通的으로 使用되었으며 色配列은 대체로 相生을 나타내기는 하였으나 意外로 相克도 많이 볼 수 있었다. (5) 기타의 색동은 빨강, 노랑, 흰색을 中心으로 해서 초록, 분홍, 청색, 자주등의 色이 한두 가지씩 加減되었으며 色配列은 대체로 相生을 나타냈다. (6) 색동저고리 圓衫 華衣 기타의 색동을 綜合하여 調査해본 結果 색동에 使用된 色은 빨강, 노랑, 흰색, 청색을 中心으로 분홍, 자주, 초록색중에서 한두 가지씩 더 들어 있기도 하였으며 色配列은 대체로 相生을 많이 나타냈다. 위의 여러 事實로 미루어보아 韓服에 使用된 색동의 色配列은 相克보다는 主로 相生으로 이루어졌다. 그러나 意外로 相克도 많이 볼 수 있었는데 이것은 視覺的인 色感을 考慮한 때문이 아닌가한다. 따라서 색동은 相生을 中心으로 하여 配列되기는 하였지만 部分的으로 이에 어긋나고 있는 것도 있으므로 오늘날 使用되고 있는 색동을 視覺的인 色感을 考慮함은 勿論 陰陽五行說과도 附合되는 색동을 찾아본다면 의의가 있을 것으로 생각된다.