金箔紋樣을 이용한 作品硏究

Abstract

In this thesis, a new direction of traditional design by bringing in gold-leaf pattern to modern fashion, through the study in the whole fields of gold-leaf, was groped. Materials for the study were sundry records, genuine articles, it's relation to gold-leaf proffesion, interview with practical businessmen and process of manufacture. Although the origin of gold-leaf was not clear in any records, it could be presumed that it was originated as a new method to substitute for fabric, woven with gold thread when it wag lack in supply from china owing to unfavorable road and weather conditions during the period of Cho-sun Dynasty. As a result of analysis of gold-leaf patterns through the study of genuine article, it could be found that various pattern, to say nothing of animal, plant, lucky sign, geometrical and natural patterns, were used on fashion and cloth-wrapper, like Daeran-chima, Suran-chima, Dangui, Jeogori, various types of belt, Dotural-dengi, Ap-dengi, Jumoni, etc., and most of patterns are lucky sign ones which represent, symbolically, phylosophy of men in the period of Cho-sun Dynasty. Traditional manufacturing process of gold-leaf is divided into 4 steps. They are gold-leaf printing-block carving, gold-leaf paper fabrication, glue preparing and gold-leaf printing. At the present time, this manufacturing process has been developed into process that has been partially changed with no change on basic one, and that is popular one which got a hint from general printing technique with complete change of basic one. One base of the whole study about gold-leaf, as mentioned above, works that brought gold-leaf pattern have been presented, and through the works, modern sense and new effect of gold-leaf could be obtained from conventional gold-leaf by reorganization of arrangement of gold-leaf pattern and combination of gold-leaf and new materials. As was known through the illustrations shown here, it has been concluded that the adaptation of gold-Leaf pattern to modern costume is regarded as one of the effective method to develope the field of traditional design, furthermore the pespective possibllities of the realm to be cultivated will be broad and endless.;본 논문은 金箔에 대한 전반적 연구를 통해 金箔紋을 현대복에 도입함으로써 전통적 디자인의 새로운 방향을 모색한 것이다. 연구자료는 문헌과 실물자료 金箔業관계 실무자들과의 면담과 작업과정의 관찰이다. 金箔은 기록상으로 확실한 시원을 찾을 수는 없지만 조선시대 중국에서 수입하던 金織이 교통과 기상관계로 공급이 충분치 않자 金織의 효과를 대신할 새로운 방법으로 창안된 것이라고 추정된다. 金箔紋樣을 실물자료를 통해 분석한 결과 動物紋, 植物紋, 吉祥語紋幾何紋, 自然紋과 그 외 다양한 紋樣이 대란치마, 스란치마, 唐衣, 저고리 帶, 도투락댕기, 앞댕기, 주머니 등의 복식과 褓 등에 사용되었고 대부분의 문양이 조선인들의 가치관을 상징적으로 표현하고 있는 吉祥紋이다. 金箔의 전통적 제작공정은 金箔板 만들기, 金箔紙 만들기, 接着劑 만들기, 金箔 올리기의 4과정으로 이루어지며 이것이 현대에 와서 부분적으로 공정이 변형된 현대공정과 기본과정에서 부터 전혀 다른 인쇄술에서 착안된 대중적 공정으로 발달하였다. 이상과 같은 金箔에 대한 전반적 연구를 토대로 金箔紋을 도입한 작품을 제시하였고 작품을 통하여 金箔紋 배치를 재구성하고 金箔과 새로운 소재를 결합시켜 전통金箔에서 현대적 감각과 새로운 金箔의 효과를 얻을 수 있었다. 이와 같이 金箔紋의 현대복 도입은 전통적 디자인 개발의 측면에서 효과적 방안으로 제시될 수 있으며 무한한 개발의 가능성을 갖고 있다고 하겠다.