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서양 여성속옷(Underclothes)을 응용한 의상디자인

서양 여성속옷(Underclothes)을 응용한 의상디자인
Other Titles
(The) Application of Western Women's Underclothes As a Fasion Design
Issue Date
대학원 장식미술학과
이화여자대학교 대학원
조형예술 쟝르인 복식은 시대정신과 인간정신의 표현이 전제되어 있으므로, 감정과 심상을 전달하고 사회적 영감과 욕구를 반영한다. 따라서 그 연구의 필요성이 날로 증대되고 있으나, 속옷(underclothes)에 대한 연구는 이론과 작품 양면에서 연구가 부족한 실정이다. 이에 서양여성의 속옷을 이론적으로 정리하고 "속옷의 겉옷화" 현상을 모티브로 작품을 제작한 연구의 체계와 진행은 다음 표와 같다. ◁표삽입▷(원문을 참조하세요) 위의 가정을 통하여 속옷이 현대패션의 외부 디자인 요소로 드러난 현상을 재해석한 결과, 실용성과 섬세한 여성미의 강조를 디자인 컨셉으로 하여 복식 조형으로 표현한 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 표피적인 현상을 보고 그 분위기만을 맹목적으로 따르는 디자인은 생명력있는 디자인이라 할 수 없다. 따라서 복식 현상의 하나인 "속옷의 겉옷화"를 주제로 속옷의 변천사로부터 겉옷화의 원인등 본질을 규명한 후에 디자인으로 접근하는 체계적인 방법을 제시하였으며 이는 새로운 창조작업의 기반이 되었다. 2. 속옷을 겉옷화시키는 디자인 과정을 통해 기존의 질서에 의문을 제기하면서 고정관념을 깨는 창조적인 마인드를 배양할 수 있었다. 3. 보정용 속옷의 형태나 바디라인을 응용한 디자인은 인체의 유연한 형태를 강조하는 모티브가 될 수 있다는 가능성을 발견하였다. 4. 속옷의 전통적인 재료와 누빔이나 자수 기법등은 우아하고 섬세한 느낌을 주므로 현대의 여성복에 활용, 여성미를 한층 강조할 수 있었다.;Fashion can be said to be a synthetic art form and the creation of fashion is just one form of an artistic expression which transmits feelings and images. Therefore fashion reflects it's social inspiration and desires to creat. Before the underclothes motif of fashion is explained the researched theoretical backgrounds are as follows: The general term of the wearing of underclothes under the outerclothes has the 'protection' ability and the 'expression' ability. Under the 'protection' ability there are ① The hygienics. ② The insulation and protection of the body. Under the expression ability there are ① Social status ② The double symbols of modesty and sexuality ③ The correction of the body and ability to sense the beauty of a certain generation through the silhouettes. 1. The anciet underclothes had a clear classified conception from the outerclothes and it's form and wearings were simple. 2. The underclothes form the middle ages developed strongly as an hygenic need and the decoration of partially exposed parts were characteristic. 3. Modern age underclothes were distinctive in that it had a strong body correction ability. It also had a wide variety of specialized underclothes. 4. The modern underclothes were advanced in it's construction for active movements and it's multi-abilities in it's designs. These and other factors made it possible for the advancement of the prsent day underclothes. 5. The present day underclothes, with the help of the industrial technology, are more functionde, the wearable area is more reduced and a extremities of both decoration and simplification in it's design. The underclothes have appeared through fashion's overall motif of the conversion of underclothes to outerclothes and it's inner primary factors of the origin action background are as follows; 1. Underclothes is a word that represents 'erotism' and the premise of the 'concealment' character brings out 'exposure' charactor. 2. Through the fashion history of underclothes we know that the expression a certain generation's beauty of it's outerclothes were greatly influenced by it's underclothes. The above said premise of the innern primary factors has made undeclothes able to appear as a fashion motif into the 1990's 'deconstruction trend' and the 'end of this century's trend.' With the theoretical background, re-interpretating the developement of the developement of the appearance of outerclothes and expressing it as a fashion moulds' results are as follows ; 1. A design that blindly follows the atmosphere of just an outer form cannot be said to be a design that has life. Therefore with one of fashion history's 'convension of underclothes to outerclothes' as a title. to design only after the systematic method of searching of the essence, from the transition history of underclothes to the origination of it's conversion to outerclothes, was a base for a new disciplined creativity. 2. Through the desigh process of conversing the innerclothes into the outerclothes, the exsisting principles were questioned and the disciplining of the creative mind to breaking the fixed conceptions were possible. 3. The use of the body correcting underclothes or the design that used the body line made it possible to accentuate the body's fluid form and the possibility of using it as an motif was discovered. 4. The traditional materials and techniques of the underclothes gave an elegant and delicate feeling se that it gave in the usage of the modern women's fashion a heightened femimism. 5. Design and material are delicated and in cases where are many details colorless group colors are used to consolidats and by doing so When worn as an everyday clothing it's modern senses are not lost. Lastly, as this research was based on a recent look, in analysing the phenomenon there were many confusions. In the case of the transition history, because a specified part was not being concentrated, a degree of depth was impossible. Also, the term 'conversion of innerclothes to outer clothes' or other related terms being not fixed is a weak point, but with this kind of research's limit I would like to think of it as a definition that in a modern world where a contemporary period's condition, it is hard to define and leave it as a fallow - up research's duty.
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