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dc.contributor.author최혜선-
dc.creator최혜선-
dc.date.accessioned2016-08-26T03:08:30Z-
dc.date.available2016-08-26T03:08:30Z-
dc.date.issued1985-
dc.identifier.otherOAK-000000000699-
dc.identifier.urihttps://dspace.ewha.ac.kr/handle/2015.oak/194219-
dc.identifier.urihttp://dcollection.ewha.ac.kr/jsp/common/DcLoOrgPer.jsp?sItemId=000000000699-
dc.description.abstract韓服은 우리나라 固有의 生活樣式, 社會規範, 美的基準을 表現하고 있다. 따라서 韓服은 構造的 特徵 卽 形態, 몸에 맞는 程度 및 一般的으로 使用되는 織物에 있어 洋服의 그것과는 큰 差異를 지니고 있다. 本 硏究의 目的은 첫째, 銅製等身人體模型(Manikin)을 使用하여 韓服의 保溫力(I_T, I_cl, I_cle)을 測定하고, 둘째로, 同一한 保溫力을 지닌 韓服과 洋服을 着用時 被驗者의 溫熱反應을 比較하는 것이었다. 本 硏究의 測定分析結果 室內韓服의 保溫力은 男·女겨울用이 各己 1.27 clo 및 1.45 clo, 그리고, 男·女여름用이 各己 0.79 clo 및 1.08 clo이었으며 이는 一般的으로 着用되는 男·女室內洋服에 比하여 比較的 높은 値數를 나타내었다. 本 比較測定에서는 被驗者의 韓服과 洋服 着用時의 溫熱反應을 比較하기 위하여 測定된 韓服의 保溫力과 同一한 保溫力을 지닌 4벌(男·女, 겨울·여름用)의 洋服이 選定되었고, 韓服의 保溫力에 의한 4가지 快適溫度實驗條件에 따라 男·女 各 8名의 韓國人學生들이 被驗者로 連4回에 걸쳐 別個의 衣服을 着用하고 日字를 달리하여 하루 2時間씩 實驗에 參加하였다. 本 硏究의 從屬變因으로는 溫熱感覺, 溫熱快適性, 加重平均皮膚溫度, 그리고 衣服滿足度가 測定되었다. 그 結果 韓服 着用時와 洋服 着用時의 被驗者의 溫熱反應은 有意的인 差異가 없었다. 本 硏究에서 韓服의 保溫力測定結果는 多樣한 形態의 衣服保溫力資料의 擴張에 寄與할 수 있었고, 被驗者의 溫熱反應의 結果로서 ASHRAE Standard 55-1981이 衣服의 保溫力을 適切히 統制한다면 多樣한 形態의 衣服을 着用하는 他文化圈에도 適用될 수 있음이 밝혀졌다. ; In a two phase cross-cultural study involving Korean and Western dress, the thermal insulation values of selected Korean garments and ensembles were measured using an electrically heated, life-sized copper manikin. Then, the thermal responses of subjects wearing Korean ensembles were compared with the thermal responses of subjects while wearing Western ensembles. Winter and summer versions of both the men’s and women’s Western ensembles were selected so that the insulation values and the amount of body surface area covered Western ensembles were the same as that for comparable Korean ensembles. Four comfortable temperature test conditions were selected, and eight male and eight female Korean student participated four times during a two-hour session on different days wearing a different ensemble each day. The thermal sensation scale, thermal comfort scale, and weighted mean skin temperatures, as well as the clothing acceptability scale, were used as dependent variables in this study. The results indicated that the thermal responses of the subjects were not different while wearing two different types of clothing ensembles each with the same insulation values. The thermal insulation values (I_T, I_cl, I_cle) measured in this study for traditional Korean garments and ensembles contribute to the growing data base of clo values for different types of clothing. The results of this study imply that people would respond similarly to their thermal environment as long as the clo values of the ensembles are controlled regardless of the origin of clothing. Thus ASHRAE Standard 55-1981 can be applied to many cultures if the clo values are controlled properly.-
dc.description.tableofcontentsⅠ. INTRODUCTION ----------------------------------------------------- 1 A. Statement of the Problem ----------------------------------------- 4 B. Definition of Terms ---------------------------------------------- 11 C. Limitations of the Study ----------------------------------------- 13 Ⅱ. REVIEW OF LITERATURE --------------------------------------------- 15 A. Thermal Comfort -------------------------------------------------- 15 1. Physics of Heat Transfer ---------------------------------------- 15 a. Conduction ----------------------------------------------------- 16 b. Convection ----------------------------------------------------- 17 c. Radiation ------------------------------------------------------ 18 d. Evaporation ---------------------------------------------------- 19 2. Factors Affecting Thermal Comfort ------------------------------- 20 a. Ecosystem Complex ---------------------------------------------- 20 b. Thermal Determinants ------------------------------------------- 20 c. Non-thermal Determinants --------------------------------------- 27 3. Assessment of Thermal Comfort ----------------------------------- 32 a. Methods of Expression ------------------------------------------ 33 (1) Body temperature --------------------------------------------- 33 (2) Skin temperature --------------------------------------------- 34 b. Methods of Impression ------------------------------------------ 35 (1) Thermal sensation scale -------------------------------------- 36 (2) Thermal comfort scale ---------------------------------------- 39 4. Historical Development ------------------------------------------ 41 B. Thermal Insulation Properties Provided by Clothing Systems ------- 46 1. Measurements of Thermal Insulation of Clothing Systems ---------- 47 a. Types ---------------------------------------------------------- 47 (1) Total insulation --------------------------------------------- 47 (2) Effective clothing insulation -------------------------------- 49 (3) Instrinsic clothing insulation ------------------------------- 51 b. Methods of Measurements ---------------------------------------- 54 (1) Manikin method ----------------------------------------------- 54 (2) Direct measurement from live subject ------------------------- 56 (3) Prediction from physical data of fabrics --------------------- 57 (4) Estimate of thermal insulation value of clothing ensemble ---- 58 (5) Others ------------------------------------------------------- 60 c. Approaches to Evaluate Thermal Comfort Characteristics of Clothing ------------------------------------------------------- 62 2. Factors Affecting Thermal Insulation of Clothing Systems -------- 65 a. Amount of Body Surface Area Covered ---------------------------- 65 b. Fabric Thickness ----------------------------------------------- 66 c. Fit of Clothing ------------------------------------------------ 66 d. Weight of Clothing --------------------------------------------- 67 C. Thermal Insulation Properties Provided by Fabrics ---------------- 68 1. Measurements of Thermal Insulation of Fabrics ------------------- 69 a. Units ---------------------------------------------------------- 69 b. Methods -------------------------------------------------------- 70 (1) Rate of cooling method --------------------------------------- 70 (2) Disk method -------------------------------------------------- 71 (3) Constant temperature method ---------------------------------- 71 2. Factors Affecting Thermal Insulation of Fabrics ----------------- 72 a. Fabric Characteristics ----------------------------------------- 72 (1) Thickness ---------------------------------------------------- 72 (2) Density and porosity ----------------------------------------- 73 (3) Air permeability --------------------------------------------- 75 (4) Compressional Resilience ------------------------------------- 76 (5) Construction ------------------------------------------------- 77 (6) Weight ------------------------------------------------------- 78 (7) Finishing ---------------------------------------------------- 79 (8) Others ------------------------------------------------------- 80 b. Yarn Characteristics ------------------------------------------- 81 c. Fiber Characteristics ------------------------------------------ 81 Ⅲ. METHODOLOGY ------------------------------------------------------ 84 A. Determination of Clothing Insulation Values for Korean Garments and Ensembles ---------------------------------------------------- 85 1. Selection of Korean Ensembles ----------------------------------- 85 a. Garment Design ------------------------------------------------- 85 b. Fabrics -------------------------------------------------------- 92 c. Garment Construction ------------------------------------------- 93 2. Measurement of Clothing Insulation Values for Korean Garments and Ensembles --------------------------------------------------- 96 a. Facilities and Equipment --------------------------------------- 96 (1) Manikin ------------------------------------------------------ 96 (2) Environmental chamber ----------------------------------------100 b. Procedure ------------------------------------------------------100 (1) Dressing the manikin -----------------------------------------101 (2) Conducting the experiment ------------------------------------101 (3) Calculation of total insulation values and effective clothing insulation values -----------------------------------106 (4) Estimating intrinsic clothing insulation and clothing area factor --------------------------------------------------107 (5) Estimating the body surface area covered by clothing ---------109 3. Selection of Western Ensembles ----------------------------------109 B. Evaluating The Thermal Response of Korean Indoor Ensembles vs. Western Indoor Ensembles -----------------------------------------113 1. Research Design -------------------------------------------------113 a. Independent Variables ------------------------------------------113 b. Dependent Variables --------------------------------------------121 (1) Skin Temperature ---------------------------------------------121 (2) Thermal sensation --------------------------------------------121 (3) Thermal comfort ----------------------------------------------123 (4) Clothing acceptability scale ---------------------------------124 c. Experimental Design --------------------------------------------124 d. Subjects -------------------------------------------------------125 e. Facilities and Equipment ---------------------------------------129 f. Procedure for Obtaining Subjects -------------------------------131 2. Test Protocol ---------------------------------------------------131 a. Pilot Study ----------------------------------------------------132 b. Procedure ------------------------------------------------------132 (1) Pre-test room ------------------------------------------------133 (2) Test room ----------------------------------------------------137 3. Data Treatment --------------------------------------------------137 a. Phase 1 --------------------------------------------------------137 b. Phase 2 --------------------------------------------------------138 - Ⅳ. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION -------------------------------------------140 A. Phase 1 ----------------------------------------------------------140 B. Phase 2 ----------------------------------------------------------149 1. Thermal Sensation Vote ------------------------------------------150 2. Thermal Comfort Vote --------------------------------------------153 3. Weighted Mean Skin Temperature ----------------------------------156 4. Clothing Acceptability Scale ------------------------------------159 Ⅴ. SUMMARY, CONCLUSIONS AND RECOMMENDATION --------------------------170 BIBLIOGRAPHY ---------------------------------------------------------174 APPENDICES -----------------------------------------------------------191-
dc.formatapplication/pdf-
dc.format.extent10594354 bytes-
dc.languageeng-
dc.publisher이화여자대학교 대학원-
dc.titleA study of clothing and thermal comfort-
dc.typeDoctoral Thesis-
dc.identifier.thesisdegreeDoctor-
dc.identifier.major대학원 의류직물학과-
dc.date.awarded1985. 2-
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