패션 브랜드의 코스메틱 브랜드 확장을 위한 전략 연구

Abstract

The purpose of this study was to examine the current state of the cosmetic market and a pervasive cosmetic consumption trend among consumers, to make a comparative analysis of fashion brands producing cosmetic brands and ultimately to seek brand extension strategies geared toward the successful penetration of fashion brands into the cosmetic market. The cosmetic industry is an high value-added investment industry that pursues beauty and unique image and provides a more affluent life to consumers by applying state-of-the-art science. As 'a style' is emerging as one of the keywords in today's trend, appearance management is increasingly viewed as a sort of competitiveness, and consumers regard the purchase of cosmetics as invested consumption for the sake of self-management. The domestic cosmetic market that is marked by consumption of investment type has continued to grow every year thanks to such a social perception. High-end imported cosmetics have attained a marked growth through department stores, and low-end brand shops have continued to grow as well. Furthermore, pharmaceutical companies and fashion brands that initially produced other sorts of products make aggressive efforts to find their way into the cosmetic market, thereby producing lots of new cosmetic brands. In fact, however, the cosmetic market is already preoccupied by specialized domestic brands such as Amore Pacific or LG Household & Health Care and above-mentioned specialized imported brands such as Lancome, Estee Lauder, Biotherm and Sisley. Fashion brands that try to produce new cosmetic brands to make their way into the cosmetic market have to compete with the existing high-profile brands to raise their market share. To successful compete, a thorough market survey is required, and superb product competitiveness and successful strategies are necessary at the same time. They should take full advantage of their merits, make up for their shortcoming and keep track of sociocultural phenomena to find their opportunities, predict forthcoming risk factors and successfully cope with them. It's meant in this study to suggest brand extension strategies geared toward fashion brands in a bid to assist them to survive in the cosmetic market. Related theories were analyzed to define a brand, brand expansion and the types and characteristics of brand expansion. Four factors were selected as what's required to ensure the positive evaluation of brand extension by consumers: similarity to the parent brands, brand image, product competitiveness and consumer needs, and the success factors of brand extension were analyzed. To figure out the state of the brand extension of fashion brands into cosmetics, overall sociocultural phenomena in the years when each fashion brand started to produce cosmetic brands were analyzed, and their positioning, target, design and changes in brand essence were investigated to see what strategies they mapped out to respond to the sociocultural phenomena. Besides, CMN's survey data were analyzed to find out consumer preference for fashion and cosmetic brands, and it's found that consumers didn't have a high preference for fashion and cosmetic brands except for Christian Dior and Chanel. The fashion companies that produced cosmetics were investigated to find out the reason why they extended their brands although their market share wasn't great in the cosmetic market. Specifically, SWOT analysis was made to grasp the strength and weakness of the fashion and cosmetic brands, their opportunity factors and risk factors. In the SWOT analysis, four different strategies were discussed: SO, ST, WO and WT. The first is the SO(strengths/opportunity) strategy, which refers to raising awareness of new products among consumers through brand extension to stir up their curiosity. New brands should be created in consideration of the image of the parent brands, and customer loyalty for the parent brands should be taken into account as well. In addition, their design should match well with the image of the parent brands. The second is the ST(strengths/threat) strategy that makes the best use of strengths to avoid threats. The publicity and advertising effects of new brands can be maximized through collaborative marketing with the parent brands, and the parent brands can give a stronger impression by reinforcing their image as total fashion brands at the same time. The third is the WO(weakness/opportunity) strategy that takes advantage of market opportunities. The biggest weakness of the brand extension of the fashion brands into the cosmetic market is that the sale of the basic products isn't great. Certification marketing should be implemented to make up for their weakness to improve the credibility of the quality and skin compatability of new brands. It's needed to stress the professionalism of the fashion brands as new cosmetic brands to get rid of stereotype or prejudice about the fashion brands, and customizing should be pursued to provide products tailored to different skin types and differentiated customers. The fourth is the WT(weakness/threat) strategy that aims at avoiding market threat and minimizing weakness. The fashion and cosmetic brands should try to prove their professionalism and validity as specialized total cosmetic brands. The key factor to the success of brand extension is how to strike a balance between their fashion and cosmetic brand images. After the four strategies were analyzed, which concept the fashion and cosmetic brands should have was discussed in terms of two strategies: STPD and design strategies. In the STPD strategy, premium customers were selected as the target through segmentation and targeting strategy. To satisfy segmented consumer needs, segment A was selected as the target market. Segment A refers to a group of purchasers who attach importance to the function of products such as competitiveness and skin compatability and seek after emotional value consumption at the same time. Concerning the positioning of the fashion and cosmetic brands, those brands were positioned as high functional and professional brands. Since the parent brands are widely recognized as fashion brands, they may face difficulties in brand extension into the cosmetic market, and removing the prejudice of consumers will be one of the key strategies for the success of brand extension. The removal of consumer prejudice will make it possible for them to lure more premium customers to boost their market share to expedite their successful entrenchment as cosmetic brands. In terms of brand differentiation strategies, two different strategies were selected. One was to spread awareness of the fashion and cosmetic brands among consumers and improve their product competitiveness to let them grow into specialized total cosmetic brands, and the second was high grade brand strategy. Given the STPD strategies, 'smart beauty' and 'early trendist' were selected as the concepts of their brands, and then the directions for design strategy setting were determined. Design strategies were explored in terms of product design and package design only. As to product design strategies, smart design was presented, and the development of trade dress that is to remind consumers of something when they look at product design is suggested. Concerning package design strategies, smart package design that is to give consumers unusual experience by changing structural design was proposed, and a design strategy of reinforcing the concepts of the parent brands was additionally suggested instead of merely sticking to product design that doesn't produce great graphic effects. So far, this study attempted to analyze the cosmetic market and present brand and design strategies for fashion and cosmetic brands, which is expected to assist the fashion and cosmetic brands to bolster their market share in the domestic cosmetic market preoccupied by specialized cosmetic brands to accelerate their successful settlement as cosmetic brands.;화장품 산업은 첨단과학 응용산업으로 미와 이미지를 추구하고 삶의 풍요로움을 제공하는 투자형 고부가 가치 산업분야이다. 그리고 최근 ‘스타일’이 트렌드 키워드로 급부상하면서 외모 관리도 경쟁력으로 인식이 되고 있으며 화장품 구입을 자기관리를 위한 투자 소비로 인식하고 있다. 이러한 인식의 결과로 투자형 소비 분야인 국내 화장품 시장은 매년 성장하고 있다. 백화점 유통을 통한 고가 수입 화장품의 성장세와 저가 브랜드 샵의 성장세가 두드러져 있고, 또한 제약 회사나 패션 브랜드 등 제품군이 다른 분야 기업들의 화장품 업계 진입이 활발하게 이루어지고 있는 실정이다. 이로 인해 많은 신규 브랜드들이 발생 하게 되었다. 하지만 패션브랜드가 화장품 시장으로의 브랜드 확장을 할 때에 한정된 화장품 시장에서 이미 선점하고 있는 국내 화장품 전문 브랜드(아모레퍼시픽, LG생활건강 등) 와 앞서 말한 수입 화장품 전문 브랜드(랑콤, 에스티로더, 비오템, 시슬리 등)의 브랜드와 경쟁에서 시장 점유율을 높여야하고 그렇게 하려면 철저한 시장 조사와 제품력 향상을 통한 확장 전략을 가지고 있어야 한다. 패션 화장품 브랜드가 가지고 있는 장점과 단점이나 사회나 문화 현상 같은 기회와 위기 요소 등을 충분히 파악하고 대처 할 수 있어야 한다. 본 연구에서는 이러한 화장품 시장에서의 성공적으로 살아남기 위한 브랜드 확장 전략을 제시하고자 한다. 이론적 배경에서는 브랜드와 브랜드 확장에 대한 개념 정리와 브랜드 확장의 분류, 유형과 특징에 대해 정의한다. 또한 브랜드 확장에서의 소비자의 긍정적 평가를 도출하기 위한 요소로 모 브랜드와의 유사성, 브랜드 이미지, 제품력, 소비자의 니즈 등으로 분류하였고, 브랜드 확장에 대한 성공 요인을 분석하였다. 그리고 현재 화장품 시장에 진출해 있는 패션 화장품 브랜드의 분석을 위하여 기업의 포지셔닝, 타겟, 브랜드 에센스 등 전반적인 분석을 통하여 전반적인 브랜드의 현황 분석과 사회 문화적 요소가 런칭 시기와 어떤 관련이 있는지, 어떤 전략을 가지고 대응하는지 연구하였고, 이러한 패션 화장품 브랜드의 소비자 선호도를 알아보기 위해 CMN에서 진행한 설문조사를 토대로 분석하였다. 분석을 통해 패션 브랜드가 소비자 선호도에서 ‘크리스챤 디올’이나 ‘샤넬’ 두 브랜드를 제외하고는 선호도가 높지 않다는 것을 볼 수 있었다. 브랜드 확장을 시도한 브랜드의 기업분석을 하여 현재 패션 화장품 브랜드가 가지고 있는 장점과 단점이 무엇인지 그리고 사회적인 기회요소와 위기는 어떠한 것이 있는지 SWOT분석을 통해 알아보고자 하였다. 그리고 이러한 분석을 통해 패션 화장품 브랜드가 가지고 가야 하는 컨셉을 STPD 전략 과 디자인 전략으로 나누어 설정하였다. 본 연구를 통해 패션 화장품 브랜드가 화장품 시장에서 시장 점유율을 높이고 성공적인 브랜드 안착에 성공하는데 도움을 주고자 한다.