朝鮮王朝의 王妃法服에 관한 硏究

Abstract

Sacredotal robe (法服) which means full court dress. We can't find out the shape of remains. It is too hard to find out the shape of remains on sacredotal robe for Queen before the Dae-Han Empire (大韓帝國). The studies of sacredotal robe for Queen have also been made centering around the sacredotal robe granted from Min (明) dynasty and the system of Juck-Eui (翟衣) in Dae-Han Empire. In this thesis I tried to study about the sacredotal robe for Queen from King Gong-Min (恭愍王) of Koryeo (高麗) dynasty to the close of Cho Sun (朝鮮) dynasty through the Literature of Cho-Sun Dynasty Chronicles (朝鮮王朝實錄), Ga Rae Do Gam Eui Gue (嘉札都監儀軌), Sang Bang Jung Rae (尙方定例), Gook Hon Jung Rae (國婚定例), Sok-ORae Eui-Bo (續五札儀補), and Dae Myung Whe Jean (大明會典). The first documents on sacredotal robe for Queen is regarded as that in the period of King Gong Min, which says that Chil Whee Gu Bong Gwan (칠휘구봉관) and Jilck-Eui of the 9th grade given from Min. The sacredotal robe for Queen in Cho-Sun had been granted from Min since the 3th year of King Tai-Jo(太祖) to 3th year of King In-Jo (仁祖). They were Ju-Chui Chil Juk Gwan (珠翠七翟冠), red Dae-Sam (大衫), Bae-Ja (褙子) embroidered with a pheasant on blue silk, and ivory flat baton(笏), which were the court dress for the first class of court lady. When Chung (淸) dynasty succeeded to Min dynasty, Cho-Sun adopted the system of Juck-Eui which had it's origin in the dress system of Min, denying to comply with Chung. But as a matter of fact, the system of secredotal robe for Queen which were different from the dress system of Min, was actually used and converted into our national ways. In the latter period of Cho-Sun, the system of Bae-Ja or Juck-Eui were used until the period of Young-Jo (英祖), and the system of Juck-Eui which was used in the period of Young-Jo was continually used from Gook Hon Jung Rae in the period of Young JO to the close of Cho-Sun. It was composed of Juck-Eui (翟衣), Beol-Eui (別衣), Nae-Eui (內衣), Pe Sool (蔽膝),Dae-Dae (大帶), Soo (綏), Ha Pi (하피), Sang (裳), Ok-Dae (玉帶), Pae Ok (佩玉), Gue (圭), Mal (襪), Suk (석), and Myun Sa (面紗). The headdress was used in our own ways, not complying with Juck Gwan (翟冠). The color of Juck-Eui was red for Queen, deep blue for the consort of the Crown Prince. This color of Juck-Eui in Cho-Sun were different from that of deep blue in Dae-Han Empire. Bo (補), on which dragon with five claws was embroidered was for Queen, and dragon with four claws was for the consort of the Crown Prince. The back length of Juck-Eui was longer than front about 28cm (1尺). The front opening was straight down. 51 motifs of a brace of pheasants which were similar to Bong (鳳) were embroidered on Juck-Eui for Queen. But we can't find out whether there were 36 or 51 on Juck-Eui for the consort of the Crown Prince. This system shows independent aspects, because there were not bo, Myun Sa, Sang, Ha-Pi, Beol-Eui, and Nae-Eui in the system of Min. As mentioned above, I have research on the secredotal robe for Queen through documents. But we can not guess the details of sacredotal robe for Queen, because there are no remains at all. Therefore I expect more study on this.;法服이란 大札服을 말하는 것으로 大韓帝國이전의 法服은 遺物이 없어서 그 形態를 알지 못하고 있는 실정이다. 王妃法服에 관한 硏究도 明으로부터의 賜與관계와 大韓帝國의 翟衣制를 中心으로 이루어져 왔다. 이에 본 論文에서는 高麗末 恭愍王이래 朝鮮末期까지의 王妃法服에 대하여 「朝鮮王朝實錄」, 「嘉札都監儀軌」, 「尙方定例」, 「國婚定例」, 「續五札儀補」, 「大明會典」등의 文獻을 통하여 고찰하고자 하였다. 王妃法服에 대한 최초의 기록은 高麗 恭愍王때의 기록으로 明으로부터 칠휘구봉관과 함께 9等翟衣制가 賜與되었다. 그 후 朝鮮王朝에 와서도 明으로부터 法服을 賜與받아 입었으니 太祖3年이래로 仁祖3年까지의 賜與王妃服은 주휘칠적관과 함께 大紅色 大衫, 靑色바탕에 翟鷄가 繡 놓인 褙子와 하피, 鈒花金墜子와 象牙 笏이었으며 이는 明의 命婦一品服에 해당하는 것이었다. 그러나 丙子胡亂이후 明이 망하고 淸朝가 들어서자 朝鮮은 淸의 札制를 따르기를 거부하고 明制에 의한 翟衣制를 채택하였으나 실제로 사용된 것은 明의 制度와는 다른 우리나름의 國俗化된 法服制였다. 朝鮮後期의 法服制는 英祖이전까지는 背子制와 翟衣制가 혼용되었으나 英祖 「國婚定例」이후 英祖때의 翟衣制가 定制로 朝鮮末까지 사용되었다. 이는 翟衣, 別衣, 內衣, 蔽膝, 大帶, 綬, 하피, 裳, 玉帶, 佩玉, 圭, 襪, 석, 面紗로 구성되어 있고 首飾은 翟冠 아닌 國俗化된 首飾을 사용하였다고 생각된다. 특히 翟衣는 大韓帝國의 皇后 皇太子妃 深靑色 翟衣와는 달리 王妃는 大紅, 王世子嬪은 靑色이었으며, 補는 王妃는 오과룡, 王世子嬪은 사과룡의 補를 수 놓아 달았다. 翟衣의 형태는 뒤가 1尺 남짓 길고 앞여임이 直垂된 형으로 여기에 雙鳳紋에 가까운 繡圓翟을 王妃는 51개 배치하였으며, 王世子嬪은 36개인지 51개인지 확실하지 않다. 또한 이 制度는 明制에는 없는 補, 面紗, 裳, 하피, 別衣, 內衣가 포함되어 독자적인 면을 보여 준다. 이와 같이 文獻을 통해 王妃法服을 살펴 보았으나 유물이나 그림이 없어 法服의 구체적인 형태에 대해서는 완전히 알지 못하므로 앞으로 이에 대한 硏究가 더 있어야 할 것으로 생각한다.