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簇短里小考

Title
簇短里小考
Authors
李甲姬
Issue Date
1976
Department/Major
대학원 의류직물학과
Keywords
족단리소고의류직물학의류
Publisher
이화여자대학교 대학원
Degree
Master
Abstract
本 論文은 婦女子이 禮冠인 族頭里에 대하여 考察한 것이다. 族頭里는 그 由來를 蒙固에 두고 高麗 때부터 우리나라에 傳來된 것으로 李 圭景의 「五洲衍丈長箋散稿」의 東國婦人首飾辨證說이나 崔 南善의 「故事通」에서 보면 蒙古風임을 말해주고 있다. 또 이 밖에 여러 文獻에서도 蒙古風임을 말해주고 있는데 이 족두리는 元의 后婦冠服에서 볼 수 있는 顧古冠이 傳來된 것으로 元에서 高麗王妃에게 古古里를 賜與하였다는 것이 姑姑 또는 古古里라 하여 이것이 곧 冠名으로 傳하는 族頭里이다. 이 族頭里를 一名 族兒 또는 族冠이라고도 하였으며 使用은 高麗後期에 蒙古族인 元과의 婚姻이 많았던 관계로 元의 宮中制度가 高麗의 宮中樣式으로 使用되었으며 朝鮮王朝後期에 들어와 그 當時 얹은머리에 加髮의 弊端이 심하여 英祖 正祖는 이를 禁하고자 婦人의 머리모양을 쪽진머리로 고치게 하고 加髮대신 族頭里를 着用하도록 한데서 비롯한 加髮禁制後에 족두리 使用은 더욱 一般化 되었다. 族頭里 製樣은 원래의 顧古冠은 위가 헤벌어지고 角이 尖銳하게 되어 翟羽를 꽂고 있었는데 그것이 우리나라에 들어와 倭小化되어 오늘날 우리가 볼 수 있는 족두리가 되었다. 따라서 國俗化된 우리나라 族頭里는 쪽머리에 보다 잘 어울리게 되었으며 겉은 검은 비단으로 싸고 안은 홍색으로 하여 아래는 둥글고 좁으며 위는 다소 넓은 형태로 여섯모가 되어 머리에 얹게 되었다. 그러나 朝鮮王朝時代에는 黨爭으로 因한 老論은 솜족두리를, 少論은 홑족두리를 사용하게 되었으며 種類도 多樣하게 되었다. 이에는 어여머리의 밑받침인 어염족두리에서부터 꾸민족두리, 祭祀 때 使用하는 민족두리, 喪服에 흰족두리等 用途 역시 各各 달랐다. 그런데 이 족두리 使用에 대하여서는 족두리가 本來 胡俗이라는데 諸家의 是非가 또한 많았으나 朝鮮王朝末期에는 常賤人에게까지 婚禮服과 함께 着用되면서 班家에서는 正裝에 必須品처럼 널리 愛用되어 왔다. 요즘도 꾸민족두리는 在來式 婚禮 때나 西歐式 婚姻後의 폐백 드릴 때에도 이를 使用하고 있는 것을 흔히 볼 수 있다. 따라서 時代의 흐름에 따라 많이 變用된 요즘 족두리를 보면서 그 由來와 種類, 使用을 다루어 보았다.;This is a study of CHOK-DU-LI, a black crown-like headpiece worn by women on formal occasions. In a "dialectical view on women's head-ornaments in the Nation of the East" in his OJU-HYONGMUN-CHANGSON-SANKO, Lee Kyu-kyong demonstrates that CHOK-DU-LI was a custom of a Mongolian fushion. KOSA-TONG by Choe Nam-sun and many other documentary records also verify it is of Mongolian origin. Thus CHOK-DU-LI was first introduced to the royal families of the Koryo Dynasty as part of the court dress and ornaments of Yuan in the latter days of the dynasty when many Mongolians married the Koreans. It was called KO-KO-KWAN in Yuan and in the records which show that a KO-KO-KWAN was given to the queens of Koryo, the name varies from KO-KO-KWAN to KO-KO to KO-KO-LI. Another known name is CHOK-AH or CHOK-KWAN. The headgear was handed down to the Lee Dynasty as a court outfit and was later used by women of noble families as a necessary in formal attire. It came to stay as a popular custom when King Yong-jo, wanting to do away with the "corrupt" practice of KA-CHE or a double wig, encouraged women at the time to do their hairs up in a chignon instead of KA-CHE using An original KO-KO-KWAN was bigger than a CHOK-DU-LI. Its shape widened toward the top, with the angle getting more pointed and a feather stuck on the side. But its size got smaller as it gradually Koreanized to a CHOK-DU-LI, A typical CHOK-DU-LI is so sized and shaped that it best fits CHOK-KORI or a chignon. Its surface is wrapped with black satin, inside lined with purple cloth. The small, round bottom turns hexagonal as it gets bigger toward the upper part. Different occasions and uses caused the type and shape of CHOK-DU-LI to change. There were times when harsh party strife among the Four Factions of the Lee Dynasty made the women of NO-RON faction wear SOM (padded) CHOK-DU-LI while theso of SO-R0N faction, HOT (single-layer) CHOK-DU-LI. Among other types were : OYOM CHOK-DU-LI which formed a base of OYOM-MORI or a large plait of false hair worn on the head in ceremonial dressing, jeweled CHOK-DU-LI. plain CHOK-DU-LI worn at a sacrificial rite, and white CHOK-DU-LI worn as part of a mourner's garb. Jeweled CHOK-DU-LI can be seen still in use today at nuptial ceremonies performed in traditional fashion and when worn by a bride as she gives her presents to her parents-in-low. As a method of study, the author has worked through the literature on the subject and attempted a colligation of various accounts, She has also conducted measurements of different existing CHOK-DU-LIs in museums and in private possession to determine their sizes. She talked to a few people who are currently engaged in making CHOK-DU-LI.
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