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朝鮮時代의 白官服

朝鮮時代의 白官服
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(The) uniform of government official in Yi-dynasty : with sangbok as the central figure
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대학원 의류직물학과
이화여자대학교 대학원
우리 文化가 三國時代 이래로 中國의 영향을 받아 왔음은 물론, 服飾 또한 예외일 수는 없다. 特히 常服은 官吏의 평상시 집무복으로 그 영향이 컸다고 볼 수 있다. 高麗末 우왕때 中國의 사여로 그 시초가 되었으며 朝鮮末 개화기때 官服이 구미식 복장으로 바뀌기까지 團領服, 胞背, 紗帽, 帶, 신으로 구성되는 그 기본구조에는 변함이 없으나 袍의 형태와 色, 紗帽의 뿔의 형태 등이 변모되었고 袍의 色, 胞背의 문양, 帶의재료로 계급을 구별하였다. 특히 中期 이후, 후기로 접어 들면서 둥근 團領깃에 直領의 깃이 부착되어 이중깃이 되었다는 점이 특이하다. 이것은 임진, 병자양난을 겪은 후 복식이 국속화된 경향이며 본 硏究는 文獻을 기초로 하여 초상화와 유물에 나타난 常服의 변천을 硏究한다.;Cur dress and its ornaments had been affected as our culture by China ever since the Three states, and Sangbok which is ordinary uniform of a government official in Yidynasty was so much, too. At the age of the king of Woo in the late Koryo-dynasty, it was beginned by the grant of China(Myung-dynasty) and its basal construction which consist of Danrungbok(Dress), Hungbae(crest of the breast), Samo(head gear), Dae(belt), Hwa(shoes) was not changed until the civilization in the late of Yi-dynasty. But, form and color of the Po, shape of the horn of the Samo is changed so little. It is classified by color of the Po, pattern of the Hungbae, material of the Dae. In especially at the age of the latter period of Yidynasty, that the straight-neckband cling to the round-neckband had result in the double-neckband is pecular. This is a tendency of the national customs and manners after both battles, Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592 and Chinese Invasion of Korea in 1636. This study is so based on literature that research the transition of Sangbok' as found in remains and portraits.
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