李朝時代의 服飾禁制

Abstract

The costume regulation of Lee Dynasty as within the boundary of those Sila and Koryo Dynasty. In the period of Lee Dynasty; the society was an organization of bureamnratie feudalism with flunkeyism toward the big nation(old china), During the time, Seoul, the capital city whore the royal family house my was the center of fashion and extravagance. The extravagance was : vainly actuated by the luxurious goods which were imported illegally as a part of official trade, and it was intensified by the fundamental desire for aesthetic feeling and the vanity of the people. Ultimately, the extravagance brought the costume-regulation because it had injured the society by collapsing the class System and social order. Extravagance has no limit while wealth has. The costume-regulation was to prevent to smuggle and to spread the thought of thrift throughout people. The regulation extended to every details of costume, shapes of clothes, and their decorations, textiles, the colors, wigs, hot, shoes, wedding dress-suit etc. Moreover the, dynasty made an age-limit in which one should get married. It was to break down an evil custom that one passes his marriageable age because he does not have sufficient money for wedding ceromony which require a great abuse for vanity and extravagance. Desire for luxurious silk stimulated directly the vanity and extravagance of the people. It was also the gain reason that made wedding ceromony so luxurious silk was used as an important part of hat and shoos. Silk was, therefor, the roost frequent object of costume regulation. According to the costume regulation of Lee Dynasty, only Dana Sang-Kwan and his wife had the permission to have clothes made of rat-skin(leather) or weasel-skin. Only Dang-Sang-Kwan could have shoos decorated with gold-pieces end wear a purple. However, he, very free from the regulation, had the permission of wearing a silk dross-suit only when he root ambassador. To shewflunkyism, unique to Korea, clothes of yellow and red in colors wore not permitted to wear except Kings of Lee-Dynasty because the colors symbolized old Chinose King. As it was very difficult to gather enough gold and silver needed to present to hyung-Dynasty (one of the dynasties of old China). Lee Dynasty regulated the use of Sold and silver for domestic purpose. In the Yeong-Jo era, it because a method of extravagance though it had had just a decorative function for women, is it costs so much and caused bankruptcy, the dynasty regulated the use of wigs and let thorn use caps or hats decorated with artificial flowers instead of wigs. The aim of regulation of Lee Dynasty was to restrain extravagance and use, of foreign goods. However, the real purpose of the regulation was to preserve the class system of Lee-Dynasty.