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欄杉의 硏究

欄杉의 硏究
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(A) study on Nensam (欄杉)
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대학원 의류직물학과
이화여자대학교 대학원
The aim of this thesis is how the Nansam(a kind of uniform for upper student) derived itself from the costumes of the old China, has been fixed upon and transformed in Korea. According to the survey by myself, the described problems were discussed partially by the theses written by Yoo Hee Kyeong(1975) and Kim Dong Uk(1973). Under their theses, I have studied the Nansam of China, origin of Korean Nansam, and the usages of Nansam as classfying the times. And also, under the informed Angsam(held at Biweon), I have reconsidered the Nansam. Simui was-the basic cloth of the old chinese costume and Nansam was formed to adjust Lan(欄) and geo(거) for simui.(深衣) cally used as Yuseang, Jinsa clothes, uniforms and others through Dang, Song and Myeung dynasties. It seems this Nansam came into our hands when Gwagoe(科擧) system in Goryo Kwang Jong dynasty was exercised. The fixed records obviously appeared in the beginning of Yi dynasty. But there was a little difference in the color formation of Chinese Nansam and that of Korean one. The formation which was accepted in Korea was derived from Song Wonpoong dynasties of China. Though Nansams which remainded till the end of Yi dynasty, were the light blue costume lined with black and white Nansam to be used with funeral costume, the records of Angsam(鴦杉) appeared in the end of Yi dynasty. But by the survey, its record seems to be the other name of Nansam. At those times we could see that the constume color was nearly light green rather than light blue. Through such a study we may see the constumes of China that had been often negotiated from the independent Shinra dynasty, made much influence on ours and especially the Nansam as nearly as originated form has been transmitted and used. And in the previous studying it seems a little unreasonable that I have indentified Chungkeum(靑衿) and Nansam, but I am sure there was a little difference in constume color and there were same formation as those in Nansam to be the same as Angsam.;本 論文은 古代 中國의 服飾에서 由來된 난삼이, 우리나라에 어떻게 定着하고 變遷했는가를 살펴본 것이다. 筆者의 調査로는 柳喜卿(1975)과 金東旭(1973)의 論文에서 部分的으로 다루어졌다고 생각한다. 本 硏究는 이를 기초로 하여 中國의 난삼·우리나라 난삼의 由來·난삼의 用途를 時代別로 살펴보았다. 그리고 現傳하는 鶯衫(秘苑所藏)을 基礎로 하여 난삼을 再構하였다. 난삼은 深衣라는 中國 古代 服飾의 基本 衣에 난과 거를 붙여서 만든 것으로 唐·宋·明 三代를 걸쳐 儒生服·冠禮服으로 쓰인 것이 代表的이나 그 外의 禮服으로도 많이 쓰였다. 이 난삼이 우리나라에 들어오기는 고려 光宗朝에 실시된 科擧制와 함께라고 생각되나, 定着된 記錄은 鮮初에 와서야 뚜렷하게 보인다. 그러나 中國 난삼의 色相과 우리나라 난삼의 色相에는 약간의 差異가 있으며, 우리나라에서 받아들인 形態는 宋 元豊時부터 내려오는 것이다. 또한 國末까지 남았던 난삼은 玉色 衣에 旣緣을 한 것과 喪禮에 쓰던 백난삼을 들 수 있지만, 國末에 이르면 鶯衫이라는 記錄이 보인다. 그러나 筆者의 調査에 依하면 이는 난삼의 別稱이라고 생각되나, 이 때의 衣色은 玉色이라기 보다는 연연두색에 가까웠음을 遺物로서 알 수 있다. 이 연구를 通해 알 수 있는 것은, 통일신라때부터 교섭이 잦았던 中國의 服飾이 우리나라에 끼친 영향은 至大하며, 특히 난삼은 明制에 가깝게 傳來되고 着用되었음을 알 수 있다. 또한 先行硏究에서 靑衿과 난삼을 同一視한 것은 無理가 있으며, 난삼과 鶯衫이 同一하다는 見解에는 衣色의 差異만 있을 뿐 形態는 같았음을 밝힌다.
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