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軍服에 對한 硏究

Title
軍服에 對한 硏究
Other Titles
(A) STUDY OF GOOGUNBOK
Authors
金賢舜.
Issue Date
1981
Department/Major
대학원 의류직물학과
Keywords
군복구군복의류직물학
Publisher
이화여자대학교 대학원
Degree
Master
Abstract
본 論文은 朝鮮王朝 中期 以後 부터 국말까지 주로 武官이 착용한 具軍服에 對하여 文獻, 遺物, 繪畵를 통해서 고찰한 것이다. 具軍服은 宣祖代에 생겼다고 보는데 회화에 의해 確認된 最古의 具軍服은 肅宗代이다. 具軍服 中期 以後부터 武官의 堂服으로 品職의 구별없이 高宗 32年 軍服이 西歐式服裝으로 바뀔때까지 계속 착용되었다. 具軍服은 同多里, 戰服, 戰帶, 戰笠, 木靴로 構成되며 여기에 箇箇, 藤鞭 兵符, 號牌등을 갖춘다. 同多里는 겹수라고도 하며 겹동다리와 홑동다리가 있는데 말기 겹동다리의 형태는 옷깃은 직령이고 소매 넓이는 좁고 섶과 무가있으며 뒷길 중심선과 무의 옆선에 트임이 있는 袍로 소매에 紅色 헝겊을 덧댄것이 특징이다. 길의 색은 주황색, 녹색, 하늘색, 남색, 자주색, 검정색, 분홍색 등으로 다양하나 소매는 홍색 한가지이다. 소매는 3겹과 2겹이 있으며 홍색 헝겊을 끝동부분, 손목에서 팔꿈치까지, 손목에서 진동선까지 덧댔으며 초기에는 홍색 헝겊을 덧 대지 않았으나 肅宗代부터 홍색 헝겊을 덧 댔다. 同多里는 뒷길의 중심선과 무의 양옆에 트임이 있고 소매가 3겹이던 것이 뒷길 중심선과 무 양옆에 트임이 있고 소매가 2겹으로 변화되었고, 開化期에는 트임이 없는 두루막힌 袍에 소매가 2겹으로 되었다. 홑동다리의 형태에는 2가지가 있는데 겹이 아니고 홑옷인것과(圖 13~15와 같이 주황색 길에 홍색을 덧댔음) 圖16과 같이 同多里위에 戰服을 입은 겉 모양대로 만든 것이다. 戰服은 同多里 위에 입는데 唐의 半臂에 근원을 두며 綽子, 답건, 掛子, 號衣, 더그레 등의 異名이 있다. 戰服은 소매와 섶이 없는 옷으로 朝鮮王朝 中期까지는 깃과 동정이 있고 뒷길 중심선과 무 양옆에 트임이 있고 末期에는 깃과 동정이 보이지 않으며 뒷길 중심선과 무 양옆에 트임이 있다. 戰服 색에는 보라색, 녹색, 황색, 홍색, 분홍색, 남색, 검정색 흰색 등이 있으며 소속을 표시하기 위해 五方色(東 은청색, 西는 흰색, 中央은 황색, 南은 홍색, 北은 검정색)을 쓴 전복을 號衣라 한다. 同多里를 입은 위에 戰服을 입고 그 위에 帶를 하는데 帶에는 戰帶와 廣帶가 있으며 戰帶만 하거나 廣帶를 하고 戰帶를 매기도 한다. 戰笠은 胡族系統에서 온 笠子로 毛로 만든 毛戰笠과 竹으로 만든 竹戰笠이 있는데 毛戰笠에는 大官用의 안올림 벙거지와 下卒輩의 벙거지가 있으며 竹戰笠은 文官도 썼다. 戰笠에는 쟁자, 매미, 孔雀羽, 象毛, 笠纓 등이 달려있는데 品職예 따라 쟁자의 材料가 달랐다. 木靴는 반장화 모양의 신으로 검정색이며 직물로 되었고 바닥은 나무와 가죽으로 되었다. 朝鮮王朝 末에는 具軍服 뿐 만 아니라 百官服에도 木靴를 신었다. 箇箇는 버선모양의 활집으로 가죽이나 헝겊으로 만들고 허리에 찼다. 藤鞭은 지휘봉으로 손에 들거나 말을 탔을 때는 말안장에 꽂기도 했다. 兵符는 軍士 동원의 표시로 外戰의 武官이 兵符주머니에 넣어서 帶에 찼으며 號牌는 신분증과 같은 牌로 品職에 따라 材料가 달랐고 생년월일, 직업, 용모 등을 새겨서 허리에 차고 다녔다.;This thesis is a study of Googunbok which was wcrn by military officers from the middle period to the and period of the Yi Dynasty. And it was studied through books, remains, and pictures. Googunbok seems to appear in the time of King Seonjo, and the first type of Googuntok was recognized to be made in the time of King Sookjong by pictures. The Googunbok was worn as the ordinary clothes of the military officers with irrespectivity of status from the middle time of the Yi Dynasty to the 32th,years of Kin.g Gojong period when a military uniform was changed ihto the Western uniforn. Googunbok consists of Dongdari, Jeonbok, Jeon-dai, Jeonlib, (Mokhaw) and also have Dongge, Dtngchai, Byoungboo, Hopai. The another name of Dongdari is Hyupsoo, and kind of Dongis double or single, The look of double Dongdari of the end period of the Yi Dyns.sty is jiklyung and the width of sleeve is narrow. It has seop and mu and it is open the center back line and the side line of mu. Especially the red cloth was attached to the sleeve. The color of the large section of cloth forming the body of a Korean coat or jacket is various, that is, orange color, green, skyblue, darkblue, maroon, black and pink. But the color of sleeve is only a red color. The sleeve is third-fold cr twice-fold, and the red cloth was attached the end part of sleeve, from wrist to elbow and from wrost tp annhale. At the first stage, the red cloth was not attached but from the time of King Sookjong the red cloth was attached. Dongdari ie open at the center back line and the two side line of the mu end changes into the twice made sleeve. It seems that the single Dongdari is lined with sleeve on the Jeonbok, and opens at the back point and the two side. It's color looks like wearing the Jeonbok on the double Dongdari. The Jeonbok is warn on the Dongdari and it comes from Banbi of the Dang Dynasty and it's another name is Jackja, Dappo, Qveja, Hoeui and Theogre. Jeonbok is the overcoat which has no sleeve and no outer collar of a clothes. Until the middle of the Yi Dynasty, it has a wat lapels and a collar and it is open the center back line and the two side line of mu. In the end of the Yi Dynasty, the coat lapels and collar discappeared, and it opened at the center back line and the two side. The color of Jeonbok is purple, green, yellow, red, rpink, dark blue, black and white. Jeonbok -Which expresses belongings is named Hoeui which is painted a direction color(east is blue, west is white, center is yellow, south is red and north is black.) They wore the Jeonbok on the Dongdari and wore the belt on the Jeonbok, and the kind of belt is Jeondai, Kwang-dai. They wore only a Jeondai or wore a Jeondai with a Kwang-dai. A Felt-Jeonlip formerly which is worn by soldiers is a conical hat of loosely woven reed which comes from the Manchutribe, and it is made of wool or bamboo. The kind of the wooden Jeonlib have a felt hat for great soldiers and for servants. The Bainboo-Jeonlib is also worn br civil official. The Jeonlib have Jeongja, cicada, Gcngjagwoo, Sangmo, and the stuff of Jeogja is varied by status. Mokhau looks like half boots, and it's color is block and it is woven goods and it's bottle is made of wood or leather. In the end of the Yi Dynasty, they wore wooden shoes in Googunbok and official uniform also. Tonge is a bow case and looks like Beoseon(Korean socks for woman) and is made of leather or cloth, and worn it at their side. The Dungchai is a baton, and have it in their hand. Riding a horse, they put it in saddle. Byerngboo(military charm) expresses mobilization of soldiers, and is worn by a military officer on the belt, and they put it into their pocket. Hopai is a tablet like an identification card and it's material is different by status. It recorded the date of their birth, vocation, and feacures of them. They wore it by their side.
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