Drapery를 응용한 의상디자인 연구

Abstract

의복이란 살아 움직이는 인간에게 입혀지는것으로 신체적인 욕구에서 시작되어 인간의 내적 감정을 표현하는 수단으로 사용되어 왔다. 원시시대 이후 인간은 씨를 뿌려 열매를 거두던 농경생활에 이르러서 천을 짜기 시작했고 그들은 한장의 옷감으로 몸을 감싸거나 두르는 방법으로 의복의 형태를 갖추었다. 두르거나 감싸는 방법에 따라 자연스런 주름이 생겨났고 주름에 따라 신체의 미를 더한층 아름답게 표현하기에 이르렀다. 본 연구의 목적은 인간이 옷감을 몸에 걸치기 시작한 이래, 현재까지 복식조형의 한 분야로 고전주의적 아름다움을 한껏 발휘하는 드레퍼리 ( Drapery )의 시대적 변천을 살펴보고 드레퍼리의복의 형태변화와 흐름을 모색해 보고저 한다. 본 연구의 내용은 드레퍼리의 형성과 개념, 형태의 변천을 복식사적으로 살펴 보았다. 연구의 방법은 드레이프의 변천사 연구를 위한 문헌조사와 시대별 의복을 표집하여 복식 조형적 특성을 분석한 후 그것을 토대로 작품을 제작하였다. 작품은 드레이프의 기법을 다양한 각도로 응용하여 새로운 이미지를 나타냈고 신소재와 더불어 앞으로 변화 되어갈 드레이프의 새로운 기법을 연출하는데 중점을 두어 총 8점을 제작하였다. 이상 종합한 연구의 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 드레퍼리는 천을 짜기 시작한 인류가 착용한 복식형태로 드레퍼리 의복에는 시대에 따라 인간이 갖는 내적 감정과 이상이 표현 되었다. 둘째, 드레퍼리는 복식조형에 있어 표현양식이 다양하며 복식의 일반적인 미적 개념에 있어 고결, 품위, 순수함을 연출해 주며 자유로운 육체미는 더욱 여성스러움을 강조해 준다. 세째, 드레퍼리는 흐르는듯한 주름과 은은히 암시되는 몸의 율동적인 선으로 복식조형에 있어 중요요소인 에로티시즘을 표현해준다. 이상의 결과로 복식의 한 형태로 등장한 드레퍼리는 표현방법에 따라 다양한 분위기가 연출되어지며 앞으로 펼쳐질 미래의 복식에 무한한 가능성을 제시해준다.;Dress refers to what is put on a living man; it was first generated form his physical desire, and, then, has been employed as a vehicle for expressing his innerfeelings. When he began to waive cloth at the time of agricultural life after the primeval age, man had a form of dress with such method as to put a sheet of cloth around his body. According to the methods of putting around or slipping on, there emerged natural pleat, and phyisical beauty came under the more beautiful expresson of it with pleat. It was one of the very first forms of dress formation by which even human feeling was expressed. This study was started in order first to look into the historical changes of the drapery which has showed a full exercise of its classical beauty as a field of dress modeling up to this time since man first began to put cloth around, and, then, to grope for the trend of changes in form of drapery dress. For this, dress history was understood as a required theoretical background to see the concept, foundation and changes of drapery. As for the method of study, a literary research was conducted for a theoretical background, the dresses classified by the times were sampled collectively to analyze their dressfigurative charcteristics, and works were made upon the bases mentioned. Total 8 pieces of work were made so as to realize new images by applying the drapery technique from diverse aspects focused on exhibiting new drapery techniques which might be changed in the future with new materials. The results from the study could be generalized as follows : First, drapery was a form of dress which was put on by the mankind who began to waive cloth, and the inner feelings and ideals of man have been expressed on the drapery dress variously according to the times. Second, drapery has various expressional modes in dress modeling, and it is of worth not only as a superficial technique that beings beauty to dress in a sense of general aesthetic concept but also as an element of dress modeling that has a direct relation to man's mind and body. Third, drapery plays an important role in expressing eroticism, an important element of contemporary dress modeling with its flowing pleat and rhythmie movement. Fourth, according to the development of the culture and society, the drapery dress, first made of a sheet of cloth, has changed to a more delicate expression andi at the same timer have become to have a new function as the mantle and shawl. Therefore, it may be concluded that the drapery which appeared as a form of dress is formed in various forms according to the expressional methods of dress modeling, and that is suggests a limitless possibility and creativity of the dress of the future.