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납방염을 이용한 한복문양 디자인에 관한 연구

납방염을 이용한 한복문양 디자인에 관한 연구
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산업미술대학원 산업미술학과염색디자인전공
이화여자대학교 산업미술대학원
Human beings have been on the way to materialize the perfection of themselves in pursuit of the meaning of life through formative activities. The activity of technical formativeness as the means of pursuing these meanings would involve an aesthetic function as well as a function designed for practical use. Therefore, this writer is intended to seek such a meaning in expressing the dissension indwelled in the unconsciousness of a human being in formative languages and to pursue the formation of new pattern of Korean costume with regaining its tradition through harmonizing the shape of flowers styled in Korean costume with the device of lead resistance combined the practical function applicable to daily life with the aesthetic function to materialize the perfection of self, as plaoing them on the object of the study. Therefore, the writer patternized the flowers, selecting them as the materials, that would be able to well represent the image of female, because the pattern would present the very intent to express what it is to the best of one's knowledge. On the basis of this theoretical backgound, the point of Korean costume pattern was produced. Also, the theme of the relevant work was connected with a consitent theme. That is, the theme waw linked together with a variety of stages involving in a self-birth of being female, a self-growth, a passion, a dissension and an affliction, a maturity and a sublimation, etc. A series of attempts were made on symbolyzing an image of female's life on the way of perfecting herself with the introspection towards oneself through expressing the present agony and a craving for future in formative language as well as identifying the life of oneself with flower. Through the process of manufacturing this particular work, the writer was obtained with the conclusions as below : Firstly, the material termed as flower was said to be most suitable for expressing the soul of female, as it is to be the theme to enable the flower to well represent the self of female. Thus, through the symbolical representation an understanding was reached that female could perform a self-introspection and her maturity. Secondly, the lead resistance was revealed to be the material that would be able to best express the image of female being ripen into full maturity among ordeals, as it would exhibit a series of dazzling color tones through the process of laying to overlap a fold after another fold. Thirdly, the lead resistance is characterized as a most befitting technical device being able to represent a profound inner image of female. That is, permeating the dyestuffs into fibers so as not to be even perceptible, it would be mainly because of creating a taste of antique style. Consequently, with obtaing the conclusions as described above, it was deemed that the technical device for dyeing should henceforth reqire the necessity of humane design for minority through rejecting machine civilization and mass production in this context. However, to one's disappintment, it leaves something to be desired due to the fact that the range was applied only to the ceremonial dress of female in addition to an unfavorable factor for a number of unnecessary process, because the size of the relevant works was found to be exceedingly big at the time of manufacturing them. Nevertheless, it would be suggested that, on the basis of effectuating this thesis, a number of more humane designs could emerge from consecutive studies to be service of minority rather than majority in a sense through making the best use of the updated technical device lot lead resistance in vitalizing a contemporary sensation applicabe to our traditional Korean costumes.;인간은 조형활동을 통해 삶의 의미를 추구하며, 자기를 완성해 간다. 이런 의미 추구의 수단인 공예적 조형활동은 심미적 기능과 실용적 기능을 포함한다. 이에 본 연구자는 인간 속에 존재하는 갈등들을 조형적 언어로 표출함으로 의미를 찾고, 자기를 완성해 나가는 심미적 기능과 생활에의 적용이라는 실용적 기능을 겸비한 한복에 양식화된 꽃의 형태를 납방염법으로 조화시킴으로서 전통성을 되찾고, 새로운 한복문양의 형성을 추구하는데 그 연구 목적이 있다. 따라서 본 연구자는 여성으로써 가장 관심을 불러 일으키고 있는 꽃을 소재로 선택하여 무늬화를 시도해 보았다 문양은 무엇인가 이야기하려는 의도를 나타내기 때문이다. 이런 이론적 배경을 바탕으로 한복문양 6작품을 제작하였다. 작품의 주제는 인간성장과정으로 연결되어 있다. 즉 여성의 자아탄생, 성장, 열정, 갈등과 번뇌, 성숙, 승화의 단계로 주제는 이어진다. 꽃을 통하여 자기 삶을 동일시하고, 현재의 고뇌와 미래의 갈망을 조형적 언어로 표현함으로 자기를 돌아보고, 자기를 완성해 나가는 여인의 삶을 상징한다. 이 작품을 제작하면서 본 연구자는 다음과 같은 결론을 얻었다. 첫째, 꽃이란 소재는 여성의 자아를 가장 잘 표현시켜 주는 주제이므로 여성의 영혼을 표현하기에 가장 적합하다는 것이다. 이런 상징적 표현을 통해서 여성은 자기성찰과 완숙이 이루어질 수 있는 것이다. 둘째, 한겹 한겹 겹치면서 강한 색을 나타내는 노방은 시련속에서 완숙해 가는 여성의 심상을 가장 잘 표현해 줄 수 있는 재료이다. 셋째, 납방염은 여성의 심오한 내적 심성을 표현할 수 있는 가장 적합한 기법이다. 즉 섬유속에 염료가 침투해서 너무 눈에 띄지도 않으면서도 고풍스런 맛을 자아내기 때문이다. 위와같은 결론을 얻으면서 이제 염색의 기법은 기계문명과 대량생산을 거부하고 일부 특수 계층을 위한 다품종 소량 생산으로 나갈 필요성이 있다고 생각되었다. 그러나 작품제작시 작품크기가 너무 커서 불필요한 과정이 많았던 점과 대상을 여성 예복에 그 범위를 제한한 점이 아쉽다. 마지막으로 우리 전통한복에 현대 감각을 이용한 납방염이 실용화되어 일부 특수 계층을 위한 다품종 소량생산을 할 수 있는 영역이 많이 개척되길 바란다.
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