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통일신라시대 와당의 식물문을 응용한 의상디자인 연구

Title
통일신라시대 와당의 식물문을 응용한 의상디자인 연구
Other Titles
A study on fashion design by application of the botanical pattern From the roofing tile of unified Shilla Focused on cut work machine embroidery
Authors
안지혜
Issue Date
2005
Department/Major
디자인대학원 의상디자인전공
Publisher
이화여자대학교 디자인대학원
Degree
Master
Abstract
A modern society is gradually becoming integrated and also globalized. With regard to this, The hybrid of culture, art and the lifestyle draws the attention to the traditional originality. Nowadays, regional characteristics and culture based on specific nationality gets higher reputation. This is backed up by that people gives higher scores on ethnic stuffs (Like ZENs). Therefore as Korean designer, many of our contemporaries would agree to the idea of making use of Korean traditional color in the modern garment design . In the era of united kingdom of Shilla, due to international trade with Dang dynasty which was famous of its splendid art, stylish pattern was dominant trend all over the peninsula. What we mostly have in our mind when we think of typical Korean fine art, would be ‘Beauty of the left blank’ which leads to the elegance. However with only glimpse of relics of shilla fine arts, it is no doubt flashness is the key to understand art of shilla. In the later stage, enthusiasm in the fine arts grew stronger, mostly in the aristocrat society, that many kinds of glamorous works of arts ,including stony building, emerged as leading style in this time. Unfortunately, many of them have been destroyed in the war between Japan and Chosun in Imjin year. What we can see here in this time are mostly the copies or restored pieces. This essay focuses on the botanical pattern laid in the roofing tile. We will further deal with one of the techniques used in cut‐work machine embedding. The essay eventually concludes that embroidery was the typical showy style of Shilla. As a result of this study, the following findings have been obtained : first, Studies went on with researches through history, characters, and tried patterns on tiles and developing situations and the roofing tiles in property and their carved patterns have been studied. Second, a certain botanical patterns on behalf of the pattern have been subclassified intd different characteristics. Third, there are different specified into fashion designs applied to the cut‐work machine embroidery pattern in terms of the country and there is a specific technique of its expression including its form. The botanical pattern carved on the roofing tiles during the united kingdom of Shilla. While the silk is selected sense of the kingdom’s brilliant. I have come to a conclusion as follows: First, the roofing tile of Korea has resulted in a possibility of the development and expression of modern clothing on the basis of the tradition by making a way of brilliant culture. Second, the cut‐work machine embroidery is suitale technique expressing the roofing tiles of formative. Third, the pattern of roofing tile can have an effect on a selection of a new technique, and on a reformulation and recreation of modern clothing design. A more effortto apply botanically patterns can bring us into a preat effect on keeping our clothing field ahead pf the international competition. Thus, an incessant interest and a systematic study of our tradition can lead us into the development of various techniques and of taking precedence over the world in al clothing field.;세계화, 단일화되고 있는 현대사회에 있어서 전통과 문화는 새로운 예술의 창조적 기반으로 평가되고 있다. 그리고 복식 디자인은 생활의 향상과 더불어 인간의 욕구 충족과 필요성에 의해 보다 실용적이고 세련된 감각의 독창성을 갖는 디자인을 추구하게 되었다. 이에 본 연구는 통일신라시대의 와당을 중심으로 문양을 분석하여 이를 복식에 적용시켜 다양한 디자인 개발의 가능성을 제시하고 디자인 표현 모티브의 영역을 확대하는데 그 목적이 있다. 본 연구의 내용은 이론적 배경으로서 통일신라시대의 와당의 역사와 특징, 종류에 대하여 살펴보았으며 작품제작의 토대로서 통일신라시대의 와당의 식물문 문양을 분석하고 와당의 식물문과 컷워크 자수기법이 현대 복식에 어떻게 도입되어 표현되고 있는가를 살펴보았으며 이를 작품에 적용하였다. 본 연구의 방법은 이론적 고찰을 위한 문헌자료와 사진 참고자료를 수집하여 정리ᆞ분석하였고 이를 토대로 작품을 제작하였다. 작품제작은 통일신라시대의 와당의 식물문양을 중심으로 이를 컷워크 자수기법을 통하여 현대 여성 복식을 응용하여 실물 작품 8점을 제작하였다. 본 연구의 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 통일신라시대 와당의 식물 문양을 복식에 적용함으로써 새로운 디자인 및 소재 개발의 모티브로서의 활용 가능성을 제시하였다. 둘째, 통일신라시대의 와당의 문양을 컷워크 자수기법을 응용하여 새롭게 반복, 재배여, 확대, 변형함으로써 이 문양이 단순히 건축적 요소가 아니라 복식에 있어서도 표현이 가능한 모티브임을 인식할 수 있었다. 셋째, 컷워크 기법을 활용하여 통일신라시대의 와당의 양각효과를 입체적으로 표현할 수 있었다. 넷째, 통일신라시대의 와당의 문양을 컷워크를 통한 투명과 반투명의 효과와 자수의 재질감 등을 통하여 고부가가치를 부여할 수 있는 다양한 소재 개발 가능성을 제시할 수 있었다.
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